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2021-07-01

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Brokerage gold stocks in July are released! Which stocks have received the most roll calls?

2021-06-24

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Opening: Hang Seng Index opened 0.17% higher, New Oriental rose more than 5%

2021-05-19

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2021-05-16

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Zhou Chengjian, Chairman of Metersbonwe: I once forgot that I was a "tailor"

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Which stocks have received the most roll calls?","url":"https://stock-news.laohu8.com/highlight/detail?id=1144302321","media":"第一财经","summary":"机构指出，7月指数将持续震荡，随着中报行情展开，业绩为王，高景气成长是最小阻力方向，主题机会关注旺季线索。\n\n6月A股市场呈现窄幅震荡走势，科技股热点贯穿全月，7月如何寻找机会？截至6月30日，有14","content":"<p><div>The agency pointed out that the index will continue to fluctuate in July. As the mid-term report market unfolds, performance is king, and high prosperity growth is the direction of least resistance. Theme opportunities focus on peak season clues. In June, the A-share market showed a narrow range of fluctuations, and the hot spots of technology stocks ran through the whole month. How to look for opportunities in July? As of June 30th, 14 securities firms announced their monthly investment portfolios for July, involving non-banking, electrical, light industry, machinery, chemical industry, home appliances and other fields. Which stocks have received the most roll calls? 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Which stocks have received the most roll calls?\n</h2>\n<h4 class=\"meta\">\n<p class=\"head\">\n<strong class=\"h-name small\">第一财经</strong><span class=\"h-time small\">2021-07-01 11:25</span>\n</p>\n</h4>\n</header>\n<article>\n<p><div>The agency pointed out that the index will continue to fluctuate in July. As the mid-term report market unfolds, performance is king, and high prosperity growth is the direction of least resistance. Theme opportunities focus on peak season clues. In June, the A-share market showed a narrow range of fluctuations, and the hot spots of technology stocks ran through the whole month. How to look for opportunities in July? As of June 30th, 14 securities firms announced their monthly investment portfolios for July, involving non-banking, electrical, light industry, machinery, chemical industry, home appliances and other fields. Which stocks have received the most roll calls? According to incomplete statistics, among the \"golden stocks\" lists of various securities firms, the one that has received the most recommendations from institutions is still the \"securities firm Mao\" Oriental Fortune, with a total...</p><p><a href=\"https://www.yicai.com/news/101097403.html\">Web link</a></div></p>\n<div class=\"bt-text\">\n\n\n<p> source：<a href=\"https://www.yicai.com/news/101097403.html\">第一财经</a></p>\n\n\n</div>\n</article>\n</div>\n</body>\n</html>\n","type":0,"thumbnail":"https://static.tigerbbs.com/4a10424fe3b1f29e8d28fdc0dc474e86","relate_stocks":{"399001":"深证成指","399006":"创业板指","000001.SH":"上证指数"},"source_url":"https://www.yicai.com/news/101097403.html","is_english":false,"share_image_url":"https://static.laohu8.com/e9f99090a1c2ed51c021029395664489","article_id":"1144302321","content_text":"机构指出，7月指数将持续震荡，随着中报行情展开，业绩为王，高景气成长是最小阻力方向，主题机会关注旺季线索。\n\n6月A股市场呈现窄幅震荡走势，科技股热点贯穿全月，7月如何寻找机会？截至6月30日，有14家券商公布了7月月度投资组合，涉及非银、电气、轻工、机械、化工、家电等多个领域。\n\n哪些个股收获点名最多？\n据不完全统计，在各家券商的“金股”名单中，获机构推荐次数最多的依旧是“券商茅”东方财富，共获得5家券商的推荐，该股6月月内累计涨3.11%，最新收盘价为32.79元。\n此外，药明康德获得国泰君安、兴业证券、浙商证券3家券商的推荐。该股6月内涨幅明显，达12.62%，最新收盘价为156.59元。\n从涨跌幅来看，获两家及以上券商推荐的个股中，港股爱帝宫涨幅最大，该股6月内大涨65.75%，最新收盘价为1.21港元；跌幅最大的是泸州老窖，6月内跌超14%，报235.94元。\n\n后市怎么走？\n展望后市，券商普遍表示，7月股市将持续震荡，而中报行情将成为市场亮点。\n华金证券指出，7月份扰动增加，震荡恐将加剧，但在海内外流动性预期暂时好转背景下，结构性行情有望延续。\n浙商证券也指出，7月指数将持续震荡，随着中报行情展开，业绩为王，高景气成长是最小阻力方向，主题机会关注旺季线索。\n银河证券认为，7月是中报及中报预告披露期，业绩高增长主导结构性机会。经济金融环境暂维持相对利好权益资产，但是A股市场已反弹至高位，增量资金进场缓慢，后续需谨慎追涨，适当降低预期。\n西南证券也认为，经过前期的快速上涨，同时随着中报陆陆续续公布，中报行情有望迎来业绩兑现期，需要适当转向防御，以巩固前期的上涨成果。\n哪些行业最受青睐？\n配置方向上，券商依旧看好顺周期板块未来行情，计算机、医药、新能源等成长板块也受到券商关注，此外，关注中报业绩高增长主线。\n开源证券研报指出，周期股的重定价时刻正在来临，当投资者认识到供给约束的持续性与通胀并非短期，那么在业绩持续验证下，周期股的长期盈利能力将在全市场内显得极具性价比。同时，环境的变化也正在扭转高杠杆经营公司长期的不利地位。开始重新把前期回调较多，受到市场约束较多的成长型周期股纳入到推荐中。\n兴业证券研报称，成长仍是主旋律但是要立足性价比，中报行情可布局绩优股。成长板块围绕4条主线，找长期性价比合适的机会：\n\n 1、AIoT（计算机、通信、电子）；\n\n\n 2、医药（医疗器械、医疗服务）；\n\n\n 3、新能源链条（新能源材料、锂电设备、汽车、智能驾驶）；\n\n\n 4、高端制造设备（半导体设备、军工）。\n\n同时，兴业证券强调，中报行情不容忽视，如机械、军工、化工、交运等行业的绩优股。\n银河证券也认为，景气度向上、中报业绩高增长是主线：关注需求强劲的上游周期品；医疗美容、化妆品、智能家电等消费升级主题；产业数字化、碳中和等国家战略方向。","news_type":1,"symbols_score_info":{"399001":0.9,"399006":0.9,"000001.SH":0.9}},"isVote":1,"tweetType":1,"viewCount":2467,"authorTweetTopStatus":1,"verified":2,"comments":[],"imageCount":0,"langContent":"EN","totalScore":0},{"id":128111270,"gmtCreate":1624505564490,"gmtModify":1703838672344,"author":{"id":"3583575014073252","authorId":"3583575014073252","name":"恩嗯","avatar":"https://static.tigerbbs.com/a6e63e165d75d83d76b2bddad2635952","crmLevel":2,"crmLevelSwitch":0,"followedFlag":false,"authorIdStr":"3583575014073252","idStr":"3583575014073252"},"themes":[],"htmlText":"nnnnn","listText":"nnnnn","text":"nnnnn","images":[],"top":1,"highlighted":1,"essential":1,"paper":1,"likeSize":0,"commentSize":0,"repostSize":0,"link":"https://ttm.financial/post/128111270","repostId":"1171242956","repostType":4,"repost":{"id":"1171242956","kind":"news","weMediaInfo":{"introduction":"为用户提供金融资讯、行情、数据，旨在帮助投资者理解世界，做投资决策。","home_visible":1,"media_name":"老虎资讯综合","id":"102","head_image":"https://static.tigerbbs.com/8274c5b9d4c2852bfb1c4d6ce16c68ba"},"pubTimestamp":1624497777,"share":"https://ttm.financial/m/news/1171242956?lang=en_US&edition=fundamental","pubTime":"2021-06-24 09:22","market":"hk","language":"zh","title":"Opening: Hang Seng Index opened 0.17% higher, New Oriental rose more than 5%","url":"https://stock-news.laohu8.com/highlight/detail?id=1171242956","media":"老虎资讯综合","summary":"6月24日讯，港股三大指数高开，恒指涨0.17%报28865点，国指涨0.14%报10688点，恒生科技指数涨0.32%报8045点。盘面上，光伏股强势，福莱特玻璃高开5%，信义玻璃、信义光能等均上涨","content":"<p>On June 24, the three major Hong Kong stock indexes opened higher. The Hang Seng Index rose 0.17% to 28,865 points, the State Index rose 0.14% to 10,688 points, and the Hang Seng Technology Index rose 0.32% to 8,045 points.<img src=\"https://static.tigerbbs.com/bf14c488539ead32bc20f4d3e1881261\" tg-width=\"840\" tg-height=\"470\">On the disk, photovoltaic stocks are strong,<a href=\"https://laohu8.com/S/06865\">Follett Glass</a>Opened 5% higher,<a href=\"https://laohu8.com/S/00868\">Xinyi Glass</a>、<a href=\"https://laohu8.com/S/00968\">Xinyi Solar</a>Etc. all rose; The education and pharmaceutical sectors were among the top gainers, with New Oriental rising more than 5%.<a href=\"https://laohu8.com/S/TSLA\">Tesla</a>Concept stocks, beer stocks, property management stocks, and automobile stocks generally rose.<a href=\"https://laohu8.com/S/601598\">Sinotrans</a>、<a href=\"https://laohu8.com/S/01308\">SITC International</a>All opened higher; Large technology stocks generally rose,<a href=\"https://laohu8.com/S/BABA\">Alibaba</a>Up more than 1%,<a href=\"https://laohu8.com/S/BIDU\">Baidu</a>, Meituan,<a href=\"https://laohu8.com/S/00700\">Tencent</a>Small rise; Sporting goods stocks were mixed, with Anta's open low exceeding 1%, hitting a record high yesterday; Aviation stocks and gambling stocks fell significantly.</p><p><a href=\"https://laohu8.com/S/01478\">Qiu Ti Technology</a>Up nearly 3%, the spin-off of Kunshan Qiutii Microelectronics submitted a listing application to the Growth Enterprise Market of Shenzhen Stock Exchange.</p>","collect":0,"html":"<!DOCTYPE html>\n<html>\n<head>\n<meta http-equiv=\"Content-Type\" content=\"text/html; charset=utf-8\" />\n<meta name=\"viewport\" content=\"width=device-width,initial-scale=1.0,minimum-scale=1.0,maximum-scale=1.0,user-scalable=no\"/>\n<meta name=\"format-detection\" content=\"telephone=no,email=no,address=no\" />\n<title>Opening: Hang Seng Index opened 0.17% higher, New Oriental rose more than 5%</title>\n<style type=\"text/css\">\na,abbr,acronym,address,applet,article,aside,audio,b,big,blockquote,body,canvas,caption,center,cite,code,dd,del,details,dfn,div,dl,dt,\nem,embed,fieldset,figcaption,figure,footer,form,h1,h2,h3,h4,h5,h6,header,hgroup,html,i,iframe,img,ins,kbd,label,legend,li,mark,menu,nav,\nobject,ol,output,p,pre,q,ruby,s,samp,section,small,span,strike,strong,sub,summary,sup,table,tbody,td,tfoot,th,thead,time,tr,tt,u,ul,var,video{ font:inherit;margin:0;padding:0;vertical-align:baseline;border:0 }\nbody{ font-size:16px; line-height:1.5; color:#999; background:transparent; }\n.wrapper{ overflow:hidden;word-break:break-all;padding:10px; }\nh1,h2{ font-weight:normal; line-height:1.35; margin-bottom:.6em; }\nh3,h4,h5,h6{ line-height:1.35; margin-bottom:1em; }\nh1{ font-size:24px; }\nh2{ font-size:20px; }\nh3{ font-size:18px; }\nh4{ font-size:16px; }\nh5{ font-size:14px; }\nh6{ font-size:12px; }\np,ul,ol,blockquote,dl,table{ margin:1.2em 0; }\nul,ol{ margin-left:2em; }\nul{ list-style:disc; }\nol{ list-style:decimal; }\nli,li p{ margin:10px 0;}\nimg{ max-width:100%;display:block;margin:0 auto 1em; }\nblockquote{ color:#B5B2B1; border-left:3px solid #aaa; padding:1em; }\nstrong,b{font-weight:bold;}\nem,i{font-style:italic;}\ntable{ width:100%;border-collapse:collapse;border-spacing:1px;margin:1em 0;font-size:.9em; }\nth,td{ padding:5px;text-align:left;border:1px solid #aaa; }\nth{ font-weight:bold;background:#5d5d5d; }\n.symbol-link{font-weight:bold;}\n/* header{ border-bottom:1px solid #494756; } */\n.title{ margin:0 0 8px;line-height:1.3;color:#ddd; }\n.meta {color:#5e5c6d;font-size:13px;margin:0 0 .5em; }\na{text-decoration:none; color:#2a4b87;}\n.meta .head { display: inline-block; overflow: hidden}\n.head .h-thumb { width: 30px; height: 30px; margin: 0; padding: 0; border-radius: 50%; float: left;}\n.head .h-content { margin: 0; padding: 0 0 0 9px; float: left;}\n.head .h-name {font-size: 13px; color: #eee; margin: 0;}\n.head .h-time {font-size: 12.5px; color: #7E829C; margin: 0;}\n.small {font-size: 12.5px; display: inline-block; transform: scale(0.9); -webkit-transform: scale(0.9); transform-origin: left; -webkit-transform-origin: left;}\n.smaller {font-size: 12.5px; display: inline-block; transform: scale(0.8); -webkit-transform: scale(0.8); transform-origin: left; -webkit-transform-origin: left;}\n.bt-text {font-size: 12px;margin: 1.5em 0 0 0}\n.bt-text p {margin: 0}\n</style>\n</head>\n<body>\n<div class=\"wrapper\">\n<header>\n<h2 class=\"title\">\nOpening: Hang Seng Index opened 0.17% higher, New Oriental rose more than 5%\n</h2>\n<h4 class=\"meta\">\n<a class=\"head\" href=\"https://laohu8.com/wemedia/102\">\n\n<div class=\"h-thumb\" style=\"background-image:url(https://static.tigerbbs.com/8274c5b9d4c2852bfb1c4d6ce16c68ba);background-size:cover;\"></div>\n\n<div class=\"h-content\">\n<p class=\"h-name\">老虎资讯综合 </p>\n<p class=\"h-time smaller\">2021-06-24 09:22</p>\n</div>\n</a>\n</h4>\n</header>\n<article>\n<p>On June 24, the three major Hong Kong stock indexes opened higher. The Hang Seng Index rose 0.17% to 28,865 points, the State Index rose 0.14% to 10,688 points, and the Hang Seng Technology Index rose 0.32% to 8,045 points.<img src=\"https://static.tigerbbs.com/bf14c488539ead32bc20f4d3e1881261\" tg-width=\"840\" tg-height=\"470\">On the disk, photovoltaic stocks are strong,<a href=\"https://laohu8.com/S/06865\">Follett Glass</a>Opened 5% higher,<a href=\"https://laohu8.com/S/00868\">Xinyi Glass</a>、<a href=\"https://laohu8.com/S/00968\">Xinyi Solar</a>Etc. all rose; The education and pharmaceutical sectors were among the top gainers, with New Oriental rising more than 5%.<a href=\"https://laohu8.com/S/TSLA\">Tesla</a>Concept stocks, beer stocks, property management stocks, and automobile stocks generally rose.<a href=\"https://laohu8.com/S/601598\">Sinotrans</a>、<a href=\"https://laohu8.com/S/01308\">SITC International</a>All opened higher; Large technology stocks generally rose,<a href=\"https://laohu8.com/S/BABA\">Alibaba</a>Up more than 1%,<a href=\"https://laohu8.com/S/BIDU\">Baidu</a>, Meituan,<a href=\"https://laohu8.com/S/00700\">Tencent</a>Small rise; Sporting goods stocks were mixed, with Anta's open low exceeding 1%, hitting a record high yesterday; Aviation stocks and gambling stocks fell significantly.</p><p><a href=\"https://laohu8.com/S/01478\">Qiu Ti Technology</a>Up nearly 3%, the spin-off of Kunshan Qiutii Microelectronics submitted a listing application to the Growth Enterprise Market of Shenzhen Stock Exchange.</p>\n</article>\n</div>\n</body>\n</html>\n","type":0,"thumbnail":"https://static.tigerbbs.com/5b3b5e72649367d0aafd9bcbbca9bcd1","relate_stocks":{"159938":"医药","513600":"恒生指数ETF","02833":"恒指ETF","09939":"开拓药业-B","HSI":"恒生指数"},"is_english":false,"share_image_url":"https://static.laohu8.com/e9f99090a1c2ed51c021029395664489","article_id":"1171242956","content_text":"6月24日讯，港股三大指数高开，恒指涨0.17%报28865点，国指涨0.14%报10688点，恒生科技指数涨0.32%报8045点。盘面上，光伏股强势，福莱特玻璃高开5%，信义玻璃、信义光能等均上涨；教育、医药板块涨幅居前，新东方涨超5%，特斯拉概念股、啤酒股、物管股、汽车股普遍上扬，中国外运、海丰国际等皆高开；大型科技股普涨，阿里巴巴涨超1%，百度、美团、腾讯小幅上涨；体育用品股涨跌不一，安踏低开逾1%，昨日曾创历史新高；航空股、濠赌股走低明显。\n丘钛科技涨近3%，分拆昆山丘钛微电子向深交所创业板提交上市申请。","news_type":1,"symbols_score_info":{"159938":0.9,"513600":0.9,"HHImain":0.9,"MCHmain":0.9,"02833":0.9,"09939":0.9,"HSI":0.9,"MHImain":0.9,"HSImain":0.9}},"isVote":1,"tweetType":1,"viewCount":2603,"authorTweetTopStatus":1,"verified":2,"comments":[],"imageCount":0,"langContent":"EN","totalScore":0},{"id":194585404,"gmtCreate":1621386979608,"gmtModify":1704356765374,"author":{"id":"3583575014073252","authorId":"3583575014073252","name":"恩嗯","avatar":"https://static.tigerbbs.com/a6e63e165d75d83d76b2bddad2635952","crmLevel":2,"crmLevelSwitch":0,"followedFlag":false,"authorIdStr":"3583575014073252","idStr":"3583575014073252"},"themes":[],"htmlText":"66666","listText":"66666","text":"66666","images":[],"top":1,"highlighted":1,"essential":1,"paper":1,"likeSize":2,"commentSize":0,"repostSize":0,"link":"https://ttm.financial/post/194585404","repostId":"1101398960","repostType":4,"isVote":1,"tweetType":1,"viewCount":2593,"authorTweetTopStatus":1,"verified":2,"comments":[],"imageCount":0,"langContent":"EN","totalScore":0},{"id":192905670,"gmtCreate":1621134464990,"gmtModify":1704353196901,"author":{"id":"3583575014073252","authorId":"3583575014073252","name":"恩嗯","avatar":"https://static.tigerbbs.com/a6e63e165d75d83d76b2bddad2635952","crmLevel":2,"crmLevelSwitch":0,"followedFlag":false,"authorIdStr":"3583575014073252","idStr":"3583575014073252"},"themes":[],"htmlText":"666666","listText":"666666","text":"666666","images":[],"top":1,"highlighted":1,"essential":1,"paper":1,"likeSize":0,"commentSize":0,"repostSize":0,"link":"https://ttm.financial/post/192905670","repostId":"1144988792","repostType":4,"repost":{"id":"1144988792","kind":"news","pubTimestamp":1621047045,"share":"https://ttm.financial/m/news/1144988792?lang=en_US&edition=fundamental","pubTime":"2021-05-15 10:50","market":"sh","language":"zh","title":"Zhou Chengjian, Chairman of Metersbonwe: I once forgot that I was a \"tailor\"","url":"https://stock-news.laohu8.com/highlight/detail?id=1144988792","media":"商业江湖","summary":"2008年美特斯邦威在深交所挂牌上市，在上市仪式上，美邦创始人周成建向深交所赠送了一台镀金小缝纫机，他说：“我最早是一个村庄的裁缝，现在有幸成为中国的裁缝，希望以后还能成为全球的裁缝。”\n此后，“中国","content":"<p>In 2008, Metersbonwe was listed on the Shenzhen Stock Exchange. At the listing ceremony, Zhou Chengjian, founder of Smith Barney, presented a small gold-plated sewing machine to the Shenzhen Stock Exchange. He said, \"I was a tailor in a village at the beginning, and now I am lucky enough to be a tailor in China. I hope I can become a tailor in the world in the future.\"</p><p>Since then, \"Chinese tailor\" has become Zhou Chengjian's most important label, and he has repeated this statement on many occasions.</p><p>But 13 years later, Zhou Chengjian began to reflect on his \"inconsistency between words and deeds\".</p><p>On January 28, 2021, sitting in the office of Smith Barney headquarters in Kangqiao, Shanghai, Zhou Chengjian told \"Business Jianghu\", \"On the surface, I have always emphasized that I am a 'Chinese tailor', but in fact, in the past few years, I have been out of the clothing circle and rarely understand the changes in the industry. It is this'out-of-the-circle 'behavior that makes Smith Barney in today's dilemma.\"</p><p>Ten years ago, Smith Barney had beautiful financial report data.</p><p>In 2008, Metersbonwe's net profit reached 588 million yuan, and they reached their peak in 2011. In that year, Metersbonwe opened more than 5,000 chain stores across the country, achieving revenue of 9.945 billion yuan and net profit of 1.206 billion yuan.</p><p>\"At that time, we were the clothing company with the strongest supply chain capabilities in China. Our sell-out rate at the end of the quarter could reach 95-97%, and even the mid-season replenishment order could reach about 45%. Now our sell-out rate at the end of the quarter is only 50-60%.\" Zhou Chengjian said.</p><p>Looking back, 2008 was the turning point of Zhou Chengjian's \"tailoring career\". Before that, he \"devoted all his energy to the clothing circle, often going to Milan and Paris to exchange clothing designs with local designers\". After listing, he \"changed from a farmer to the boss of a listed company, and there were more opportunities to mix in different circles. The whole person was too confident and deviated.\"</p><p>\"Some people will never forget themselves no matter how they mix in the circle, but I mix in and forget my last name.\"</p><p>\"I take'tailor'as my slogan every day, but in essence I forget about tailor. My behavior is not based on tailor, which causes today's trouble. Now I emphasize'awakening and returning'in the company, that is, I hope to start from me and awaken my obsession with'making clothes'and return to the clothing circle.\"</p><p>From starting a business recklessly, to losing himself, and then to waking up and returning, Zhou Chengjian reviewed his entrepreneurial history to Business Jianghu in an interview of more than an hour, and said that now he knows his last name.</p><p>\"I'm the man named 'Tailor',\" he said.</p><p><b>01</b></p><p><b>The Great Leap Forward of \"Half Sleeve\"</b></p><p>At first, Zhou Chengjian was indeed a tailor.</p><p>When he was 14 years old, he learned to make clothes with his relatives, and later went to Wenzhou to do clothing processing, mainly supplying wholesalers in Miaoguo Temple.</p><p>\"Generally, orders are taken in the afternoon and delivered at noon the next day, and the longest time will not exceed 72 hours, because customers won't wait so long.\" Zhou Chengjian said that at that time, he was so busy that he took jobs during the day and cut at night. When he was sleepy, he put a quilt on the clipping board to sleep.</p><p>\"At that time, there was a popular joke in our circle, 'Be the boss during the day and sleep on the floor at night.'\" He said.</p><p>Busy mistakes. One day, when cutting, Zhou Chengjian drew the wrong size and cut a stack of cloth by more than ten centimeters, resulting in the sleeves of these suits being shorter. Then he was \"scolded by the client\", and the other party asked him to compensate more than 100,000 yuan.</p><p>Helpless next week, Chengjian went to the market to buy another kind of fabric to splice the sleeves. In order to cover up his mistake, he changed the straight sleeves of the suit into color-matching jacket sleeves, and then asked the customer to \"try to sell them, and sell them if you can. If you can't sell them, I will pay for the loss myself.\"</p><p>Unexpectedly, this kind of splicing suit was sought after by the market, and it was quickly snapped up, and even many people came to \"chase the order\".</p><p>In this way, the \"spliced version of casual suit\" was born and became a new clothing category.</p><p>\"I used to think that I was just helping others make clothes, but after this incident, I realized that I can still create clothes. Since then, I have started to pay attention to making clothes. Others buy a clothes and cut it according to the cutting, but I will change some details of the clothes, such as changing sleeves or pockets, so that the clothes will look different and the business will be better than others.\" Zhou Chengjian said that the \"half-sleeve incident\" is a breakthrough point in his career.</p><p>After this battle, Zhou Chengjian also made a name for himself. Later, he opened his own clothing booth in Miaoguo Temple, forming a business model of \"front shop and back factory\". He took orders during the day and went back to the factory for cutting and processing at night. Under this mode, purchasing, design, sewing, sales and other links are all done by himself. Later, he opened a garment factory with more than 500 people in Wenzhou and became the most experienced practitioner in this industry.</p><p>A few years later, Zhou Chengjian, who was already the chairman of Metersbonwe, visited partner companies. When those factory owners boasted to him about their company's \"strong production capacity\", Zhou Chengjian said with a smile, \"At least 30% of the employees in your workshop are novices, and I can know their proficiency by listening to the sound of them stepping on sewing machines.\"</p><p>At that time, he was indeed an authentic \"Wenzhou tailor\".</p><p><b>02</b></p><p><b>Leather bag company and net fishing</b></p><p>In April, 1995, Zhou Chengjian opened the first Metersbonwe store in Wenzhou. In order to attract customers, he paved all Wuma Street in Wenzhou with a red carpet and went directly to Meibang stores.</p><p>The name of Metersbonwe is said to come from ancient Chinese, which means \"beauty is special here, and it promotes the prestige of our country\".</p><p>\"I didn't leave the wholesale market because I had done well in the wholesale market, but I didn't think it was a long-term solution.\" Zhou Chengjian said that the clothing market in Wenzhou was \"irregular\" at that time. There was no fixed retail price for clothing, and everyone was bargaining. He felt that this model needed to be changed.</p><p>\"I wanted to be a brand with a clear price tag and no bargaining.\" So Metersbonwe was born.</p><p>However, Smith Barney's innovation in clothing retail doesn't stop there. Because of the lack of funds in the early stage, Zhou Chengjian figured out a set of \"money-saving but fast\" development model-he outsourced the heaviest part of traditional clothing enterprises-manufacturing and production, and he was only responsible for design and brand marketing. At the same time, he attracted franchisees on a large scale, which on the one hand reduced the burden of enterprises and quickly seized the market.</p><p>\"I want to make all-category clothing, but my own factory only made woven jackets at that time, and the factory was too busy, so I could only find the all-category supply chain in the society to support it. At the same time, I didn't want to spend so much money on opening a store, so I invited customers who used to do wholesale in the wholesale market to become my franchisees.\" Zhou Chengjian said that at that time, he often went to Guangdong to find cooperative suppliers to broaden the category.</p><p>\"Simply put, I am equivalent to outsourcing the production workshop and store, and apart from these two links, everything else is our own, such as branding, plate making, design and other links.\" Zhou Chengjian said that this model caused many questions in the early days of its establishment.</p><p>\"Either produce it yourself, or produce it yourself and then open a specialty store to sell it yourself. At that time, this model was called the real economy, so as soon as Smith Barney appeared, some people questioned me for'not doing my job properly '.\"</p><p>Zhou Chengjian recalled that around 1996, about one year after the establishment of Smith Barney, a colleague in the wholesale market accompanied the China Apparel Association to Smith Barney for research. After the visit, he said to Zhou Chengjian, \"If your company is still alive one year later, I will cut off my head and give it to you.\"</p><p>There is no doubt that every innovation is mixed with huge doubts.</p><p>Looking back today, Smith Barney created a very excellent business model at that time-like large clothing brands such as Nike and Adidas, they used an asset-light model to quickly mobilize social forces, and then incited a huge market cake.</p><p>\"I didn't do it after I wanted to understand the theory, but I verified the correctness of this model through these theories after I finished it. Looking back, I was not the first to adopt this model in the world. Many brands in Europe and America are global OEM. This model has already existed, but I didn't know it at that time.\" Zhou Chengjian said that in the whole world, he was not an innovator, but in Zhejiang at that time, he was the \"first person\".</p><p>Around 1998, Zhang Dejiang, then secretary of Zhejiang Provincial Party Committee, went to Wenzhou for investigation. After listening to Zhou Chengjian's speech, Secretary Zhang said, \"Xiao Zhou, you have a good model. You are borrowing chickens to lay eggs and fishing by nets.\"</p><p>Subsequently, the secretary approved a long paragraph in the materials of Smith Barney, hoping that the national reporter stations in Zhejiang Province would vigorously publicize it, so that everyone could study Smith Barney and learn the Smith Barney model.</p><p>Overnight, Zhou Chengcheng became the representative of \"fishing by net\".</p><p>After a brief controversy, the \"asset-light\" model soon showed its advantages.</p><p>From its establishment in 1995 to its listing in 2008, in just 13 years, Smith Barney created a myth of rapid rise.</p><p>\"When it went public, Smith Barney had more than 5 billion retail sales and nearly 1,000 stores, surpassing many companies established earlier than us. Compared with various data such as scale, influence, and professional ability, we are the first in the industry, or even the second and third places may only add up to 2/3 of ours.\"</p><p>Zhou Chengjian said that to this day, he feels that this model has no obvious shortcomings, and \"Smith Barney's dilemma is that he didn't adhere to the key points in this model, such as product development and supply chain management.\" Behind this is the consequence of his own \"out of the circle\".</p><p><b>03</b></p><p><b>\"Change and unchanged\" after leaving the circle</b></p><p>A bad result of \"out of the circle\" is the increase of \"inventory\".</p><p>\"Clothing resources should be in the workshop, on the production line instead of in the warehouse. High inventory is an abnormal phenomenon. On the one hand, it occupies the warehouse area, increases circulation costs, financial costs, and trend lagging costs, etc.\" Zhou Chengjian said that the inventory backlog is closely related to his original \"out-of-circle\" behavior.</p><p>Specifically, in the past ten years, Smith Barney has made some mistakes in supply chain management and channel expansion.</p><p>\"Why was our sell-out rate of 97% at the end of the quarter before 2008? This is actually inseparable from the product research and development, technology landing and commodity supply chain capabilities behind it.\" Zhou Chengjian said that two wrong decisions in the supply chain indirectly led to the decrease in the sell-out rate.</p><p>At the beginning of its establishment, Smith Barney outsourced \"workshops and stores\", while its brand and design capabilities were in its own hands. They had their own design and R&D team, which could develop the most fashionable clothing according to market needs. However, after listing, a vice president made a suggestion to Zhou Chengjian to \"socialize the design and technical links\".</p><p>Simply put, both ends of the design process are outsourced.</p><p>\"The designer draws a draft, draws it and hands it over to the production factory for trial production. It takes about half a month or a month to make the clothes. When it comes back, we will review and see if it is right.\" Zhou Chengjian said that after the company went public, he mixed up in other circles and didn't pay so much attention to the clothing circle, which made him make some wrong judgments.</p><p>\"At that time, the vice president suggested that this kind of outsourcing could save tens of millions of costs. After listening to it, I felt reasonable, so I acquiesced in this change.\"</p><p>Another change in the supply chain also appeared at this time.</p><p>\"Another vice president suggested that all the procurement of noodles and accessories should be socialized.\" Prior to this, Smith Barney's supply chain was relatively closed, and they would choose some long-term cooperative suppliers to purchase. After socialization, they became the purchase of raw materials for the whole society.</p><p>\"After studying at China Europe Business School, the vice president made a related academic paper. After studying, he came to me and told me about socializing the supply chain, saying that this would save a lot of costs.\" Zhou Chengjian said that although these measures were all suggestions made by the vice president, the problem still lies with himself. \"Because I am the authorizer, the manager and the supporter.\"</p><p>These measures have indeed helped Smith Barney save costs in the short term, but on the other hand, they also mean that Smith Barney has lost its ability to respond quickly in the supply chain and its ability to control product quality.</p><p>\"After the design is outsourced, a lot of time cost is increased. The designer's design draft and the manufacturer's finished product are mailed back and forth for modification. Often, it takes a lot of time for clothes in a season to achieve the ideal sense of design and quality.\" Zhou Chengjian said that at that time, he didn't care about these details when he was \"out of the circle\", which led them to \"toss back and forth\" and reduced the design and production efficiency.</p><p>In terms of channels, Smith Barney sticks to some outdated standards.</p><p>\"At that time, the person in charge of the channel repeatedly suggested that I make changes to retail operation and channel planning, but I didn't listen to his advice.\" Zhou Chengjian said that the person in charge repeatedly stressed to him that the stores of Metersbonwe and ME&CITY should be adjusted. For example, ME&CITY should not open a large store, but should go to the shopping center business district to open a moderate area store. At the same time, Smith Barney stores should not be based on the Big Mac store on Nanjing Road, Shanghai, and other stores should be found to make standard copies.</p><p>And he didn't adopt these suggestions.</p><p>\"Looking back, the biggest change in the market in the past decade is the change of channels and retail methods. ME&CITY is positioned to serve the new middle class, and the target group is urban white-collar workers. In the past decade, the probability of urban white-collar workers going to traditional commercial streets has decreased. This group of people prefer to go shopping in shopping malls, so ME&CITY should set up stores in shopping malls such as Vientiane CITY, Longhu Tiandi and Kerry Center instead of staying in Huaihai Road or Nanjing Road. Correspondingly, Smith Barney stores can set up stores in traditional business districts, but the flagship store on Nanjing East Road should not be used as the standard. This store is too large and can be used as a flagship store, but it cannot be promoted nationwide. \" Zhou Chengjian said that during the \"out-of-the-circle\" period, because he didn't know enough about the market conditions, he \"didn't listen to what should be heard, but listened to everything that shouldn't be heard.\"</p><p>Zhou Chengjian reflected on the reasons for his two wrong decisions: \"Product R&D and supply chain belong to back-office management. Once the back-office doesn't contact, it will forget what is right and what is wrong, so when I receive these suggestions, I feel that I can't judge what is right or wrong, and then choose to listen to their suggestions; However, retail and channels belong to the front desk. I see a lot and have a lot of contact with the front desk every day. Even if I leave the circle, I still feel that I am in this situation, so I fall into the experience trap.</p><p>Zhou Chengjian admitted that after leaving the circle at that time, he \"broke away from the analysis in the industry, and just listened to suggestions from an emotional perspective.\" And this eventually led to more detours for Smith Barney.</p><p><b>04</b></p><p><b>Reflections on \"Banggou\" and \"Youfaner\" APP</b></p><p>Of course, \"leaving the circle\" is not all a bad thing. From another perspective, Zhou Chengjian, who stands in a higher circle, also sees greater opportunities and benefits from the exchange of information \"outside the circle\". He made two major attempts in the Internet industry in 2010 and 2014.</p><p>In 2010, when Smith Barney was at its peak, Zhou Chengjian launched Smith Barney's own e-commerce platform \"Bangou.com\". Through this e-commerce platform, consumers can scan codes for consumption in physical stores, and can also realize many functions such as online shopping and offline returns.</p><p>In the first year of its launch, the turnover of Smith Barney's single brand on Banggou Online was 300 million, which is a very good figure, but unfortunately, Banggou Online only lasted for about one year before it ended sadly.</p><p>Another more significant attempt by Zhou Chengjian appeared four years later. In 2014, Metersbonwe won the overall title of Qipa Shuo with 50 million yuan; In April of the following year, the \"Youfan\" APP was launched; Subsequently, the \"Youfan\" APP successively won the title of the second and third seasons of \"Qipa Shuo\".</p><p>Youfan is an experience platform focusing on \"fashion matching\". Users can communicate with professional stylists at zero distance through this APP, choose their own style from a large number of personalized brands, get customized exclusive suggestions, and place orders in real time for sharing and interaction.</p><p>From today's point of view, Youfan is a \"social e-commerce\" APP. He has all the attributes of social e-commerce, and thanks to the drainage of Qipa Shuo, Youfan ushered in a \"good start\"-the first night of its launch, it attracted 500,000 users, and these people uploaded 100,000 selfies.</p><p>However, this APP failed to go far in the market. In August 2017, the \"Youfan\" APP announced its offline.</p><p>Zhou Chengjian said that both Banggou and Youfan have actually seized the window period, which can be verified from Vipshop and Xiaohongshu, which rose at the same time. However, Banggou and Youfan have failed to go far. The key reason is that \"I don't understand it at all.\"</p><p>\"Banggou and Youfan are both positioned in our own channels, but failed to expand to the platform attribute. We always want to make them a new channel of Smith Barney, but never think of making them a mass platform that can cover more brands. This is the result of laymen's blind investment without understanding this matter.\" Zhou Chengjian metaphorically said that no matter Nanjing East Road, Tmall and Suning are actually social channels. \"The business district needs groups, this is the business district. And I positioned Banggou and Youfan as Smith Barney's own channel, just like opening a Metersbonwe store in Smith Barney.</p><p>He said that the experience given to himself by this incident is that \"decisions made from outside the circle should be done in ways outside the circle, and you can't follow the methods inside the circle, otherwise you will definitely fail.\"</p><p><b>05</b></p><p><b>regression</b></p><p>After nearly ten years of twists and turns, Zhou Chengjian decided to return to the status of \"tailor\".</p><p>\"There is no way out. The company is doing so badly. Unless I give up, I have to think about doing him well again.\" Since 2018, Zhou Chengjian began to gradually return, and the first thing he did after his return was to \"correct mistakes\".</p><p>He reorganized Smith Barney's current channels and supply chain, and is trying to make up for the original \"wrong decision.\"</p><p>\"Our key problem now is resource dislocation. I asked the team to rethink how to make and sell clothes? For example, how to sell clothes? How to match the current resources to the corresponding channels.\"</p><p>Subsequently, Smith Barney conducted a global channel classification analysis on online and offline.</p><p>\"Whether it's the traditional online JD.COM, Tmall or the newly emerging social e-commerce platform, as well as offline business districts, shopping malls, etc., we hope to analyze and plan these global channels to find out who we want to sell to? How to sell the answer, sort out these questions, and then do product planning and supply chain support based on this precise market.\"</p><p>In 2015, in order to break the circle, Smith Barney launched the \"five major styles\", namely casual NEWear, trendy HYSTYL, urban light business Nōvachic, street fashion MTEE, and forest ASELF. Smith Barney hopes that these diverse styles can satisfy more consumers.</p><p>\"This strategy is right, but now from the perspective of simplification, they can't meet the market demand individually. We need to go deep into these styles and gradually clarify their consumer groups and consumption regions. For example, the trend system sells well in the Northeast, but we dominate resources on average across the country, which is'resource dislocation '.\"</p><p>Currently, Zhou Chengjian is accurately matching the five styles with channels and regional markets. \"Based on market demand and combined with the company's capabilities, I will focus on a certain style first, and then gradually implement it, breaking through one by one.\"</p><p>In addition to accurate matching of channels, supply chain management has also become the focus of Smith Barney's self-help.</p><p>They took back the \"technology research and development\" link that was blindly outsourced at the beginning, reorganized the supply chain, and realized a \"closed-loop path from trends to clothes.\"</p><p>\"We now have our own design team and sample clothing factory. The design and production of sample clothing are all completed internally, which greatly improves the efficiency and increases the controllability of clothing design and quality. We have just finished the research and development of ME&CITY in the autumn of 2021, and the company is very satisfied with this season's products.\"</p><p>In terms of channels, Zhou Chengjian finally changed the standards he had previously insisted on, reorganized the channel standards, and readjusted them from \"placement\" to area.</p><p>\"In addition, we also sort out the accurate matching products of different channels, and the whole operation work is more refined, standardized and replicable, so that franchisees also have confidence.\"</p><p>\"Through the sorting out in the second half of last year, many partners returned to join and cooperate a few years ago. The number of our joins in the first quarter of this year (2021) has reached the scale of last year. In the first quarter, it has been determined that the area of developed stores has been larger than that of last year. The development area of one year.\"</p><p>\"I hope Smith Barney can regain its core competitiveness and let the whole company return to the business of making and selling clothes. Now I think we have a very clear strategy and path, but we haven't fully achieved this core advantage, and now we have just embarked on the journey back.\"</p><p>Zhou Chengjian has indeed taken an \"unusual path\" from entering Wenzhou alone as a teenager, becoming the richest man in the clothing industry when he went public, and then returning to the original intention of \"tailoring\" today.</p><p>\"It is very difficult for people to know themselves, and it is even more difficult to manage themselves. Through repeated tossing, we always grow up and mature, and we will always know ourselves better than before. I have tossed and experienced it. If there is still a chance to return, this is a blessing in itself... Today, if people can still label me a 'tailor', I will be satisfied.\" Zhou Chengjian said with a teacup backed by a huge glass window.</p>","source":"lsy1621046853013","collect":0,"html":"<!DOCTYPE html>\n<html>\n<head>\n<meta http-equiv=\"Content-Type\" content=\"text/html; charset=utf-8\" />\n<meta name=\"viewport\" content=\"width=device-width,initial-scale=1.0,minimum-scale=1.0,maximum-scale=1.0,user-scalable=no\"/>\n<meta name=\"format-detection\" content=\"telephone=no,email=no,address=no\" />\n<title>Zhou Chengjian, Chairman of Metersbonwe: I once forgot that I was a \"tailor\"</title>\n<style type=\"text/css\">\na,abbr,acronym,address,applet,article,aside,audio,b,big,blockquote,body,canvas,caption,center,cite,code,dd,del,details,dfn,div,dl,dt,\nem,embed,fieldset,figcaption,figure,footer,form,h1,h2,h3,h4,h5,h6,header,hgroup,html,i,iframe,img,ins,kbd,label,legend,li,mark,menu,nav,\nobject,ol,output,p,pre,q,ruby,s,samp,section,small,span,strike,strong,sub,summary,sup,table,tbody,td,tfoot,th,thead,time,tr,tt,u,ul,var,video{ font:inherit;margin:0;padding:0;vertical-align:baseline;border:0 }\nbody{ font-size:16px; line-height:1.5; color:#999; background:transparent; }\n.wrapper{ overflow:hidden;word-break:break-all;padding:10px; }\nh1,h2{ font-weight:normal; line-height:1.35; margin-bottom:.6em; }\nh3,h4,h5,h6{ line-height:1.35; margin-bottom:1em; }\nh1{ font-size:24px; }\nh2{ font-size:20px; }\nh3{ font-size:18px; }\nh4{ font-size:16px; }\nh5{ font-size:14px; }\nh6{ font-size:12px; }\np,ul,ol,blockquote,dl,table{ margin:1.2em 0; }\nul,ol{ margin-left:2em; }\nul{ list-style:disc; }\nol{ list-style:decimal; }\nli,li p{ margin:10px 0;}\nimg{ max-width:100%;display:block;margin:0 auto 1em; }\nblockquote{ color:#B5B2B1; border-left:3px solid #aaa; padding:1em; }\nstrong,b{font-weight:bold;}\nem,i{font-style:italic;}\ntable{ width:100%;border-collapse:collapse;border-spacing:1px;margin:1em 0;font-size:.9em; }\nth,td{ padding:5px;text-align:left;border:1px solid #aaa; }\nth{ font-weight:bold;background:#5d5d5d; }\n.symbol-link{font-weight:bold;}\n/* header{ border-bottom:1px solid #494756; } */\n.title{ margin:0 0 8px;line-height:1.3;color:#ddd; }\n.meta {color:#5e5c6d;font-size:13px;margin:0 0 .5em; }\na{text-decoration:none; color:#2a4b87;}\n.meta .head { display: inline-block; overflow: hidden}\n.head .h-thumb { width: 30px; height: 30px; margin: 0; padding: 0; border-radius: 50%; float: left;}\n.head .h-content { margin: 0; padding: 0 0 0 9px; float: left;}\n.head .h-name {font-size: 13px; color: #eee; margin: 0;}\n.head .h-time {font-size: 12.5px; color: #7E829C; margin: 0;}\n.small {font-size: 12.5px; display: inline-block; transform: scale(0.9); -webkit-transform: scale(0.9); transform-origin: left; -webkit-transform-origin: left;}\n.smaller {font-size: 12.5px; display: inline-block; transform: scale(0.8); -webkit-transform: scale(0.8); transform-origin: left; -webkit-transform-origin: left;}\n.bt-text {font-size: 12px;margin: 1.5em 0 0 0}\n.bt-text p {margin: 0}\n</style>\n</head>\n<body>\n<div class=\"wrapper\">\n<header>\n<h2 class=\"title\">\nZhou Chengjian, Chairman of Metersbonwe: I once forgot that I was a \"tailor\"\n</h2>\n<h4 class=\"meta\">\n<p class=\"head\">\n<strong class=\"h-name small\">商业江湖</strong><span class=\"h-time small\">2021-05-15 10:50</span>\n</p>\n</h4>\n</header>\n<article>\n<p>In 2008, Metersbonwe was listed on the Shenzhen Stock Exchange. At the listing ceremony, Zhou Chengjian, founder of Smith Barney, presented a small gold-plated sewing machine to the Shenzhen Stock Exchange. He said, \"I was a tailor in a village at the beginning, and now I am lucky enough to be a tailor in China. I hope I can become a tailor in the world in the future.\"</p><p>Since then, \"Chinese tailor\" has become Zhou Chengjian's most important label, and he has repeated this statement on many occasions.</p><p>But 13 years later, Zhou Chengjian began to reflect on his \"inconsistency between words and deeds\".</p><p>On January 28, 2021, sitting in the office of Smith Barney headquarters in Kangqiao, Shanghai, Zhou Chengjian told \"Business Jianghu\", \"On the surface, I have always emphasized that I am a 'Chinese tailor', but in fact, in the past few years, I have been out of the clothing circle and rarely understand the changes in the industry. It is this'out-of-the-circle 'behavior that makes Smith Barney in today's dilemma.\"</p><p>Ten years ago, Smith Barney had beautiful financial report data.</p><p>In 2008, Metersbonwe's net profit reached 588 million yuan, and they reached their peak in 2011. In that year, Metersbonwe opened more than 5,000 chain stores across the country, achieving revenue of 9.945 billion yuan and net profit of 1.206 billion yuan.</p><p>\"At that time, we were the clothing company with the strongest supply chain capabilities in China. Our sell-out rate at the end of the quarter could reach 95-97%, and even the mid-season replenishment order could reach about 45%. Now our sell-out rate at the end of the quarter is only 50-60%.\" Zhou Chengjian said.</p><p>Looking back, 2008 was the turning point of Zhou Chengjian's \"tailoring career\". Before that, he \"devoted all his energy to the clothing circle, often going to Milan and Paris to exchange clothing designs with local designers\". After listing, he \"changed from a farmer to the boss of a listed company, and there were more opportunities to mix in different circles. The whole person was too confident and deviated.\"</p><p>\"Some people will never forget themselves no matter how they mix in the circle, but I mix in and forget my last name.\"</p><p>\"I take'tailor'as my slogan every day, but in essence I forget about tailor. My behavior is not based on tailor, which causes today's trouble. Now I emphasize'awakening and returning'in the company, that is, I hope to start from me and awaken my obsession with'making clothes'and return to the clothing circle.\"</p><p>From starting a business recklessly, to losing himself, and then to waking up and returning, Zhou Chengjian reviewed his entrepreneurial history to Business Jianghu in an interview of more than an hour, and said that now he knows his last name.</p><p>\"I'm the man named 'Tailor',\" he said.</p><p><b>01</b></p><p><b>The Great Leap Forward of \"Half Sleeve\"</b></p><p>At first, Zhou Chengjian was indeed a tailor.</p><p>When he was 14 years old, he learned to make clothes with his relatives, and later went to Wenzhou to do clothing processing, mainly supplying wholesalers in Miaoguo Temple.</p><p>\"Generally, orders are taken in the afternoon and delivered at noon the next day, and the longest time will not exceed 72 hours, because customers won't wait so long.\" Zhou Chengjian said that at that time, he was so busy that he took jobs during the day and cut at night. When he was sleepy, he put a quilt on the clipping board to sleep.</p><p>\"At that time, there was a popular joke in our circle, 'Be the boss during the day and sleep on the floor at night.'\" He said.</p><p>Busy mistakes. One day, when cutting, Zhou Chengjian drew the wrong size and cut a stack of cloth by more than ten centimeters, resulting in the sleeves of these suits being shorter. Then he was \"scolded by the client\", and the other party asked him to compensate more than 100,000 yuan.</p><p>Helpless next week, Chengjian went to the market to buy another kind of fabric to splice the sleeves. In order to cover up his mistake, he changed the straight sleeves of the suit into color-matching jacket sleeves, and then asked the customer to \"try to sell them, and sell them if you can. If you can't sell them, I will pay for the loss myself.\"</p><p>Unexpectedly, this kind of splicing suit was sought after by the market, and it was quickly snapped up, and even many people came to \"chase the order\".</p><p>In this way, the \"spliced version of casual suit\" was born and became a new clothing category.</p><p>\"I used to think that I was just helping others make clothes, but after this incident, I realized that I can still create clothes. Since then, I have started to pay attention to making clothes. Others buy a clothes and cut it according to the cutting, but I will change some details of the clothes, such as changing sleeves or pockets, so that the clothes will look different and the business will be better than others.\" Zhou Chengjian said that the \"half-sleeve incident\" is a breakthrough point in his career.</p><p>After this battle, Zhou Chengjian also made a name for himself. Later, he opened his own clothing booth in Miaoguo Temple, forming a business model of \"front shop and back factory\". He took orders during the day and went back to the factory for cutting and processing at night. Under this mode, purchasing, design, sewing, sales and other links are all done by himself. Later, he opened a garment factory with more than 500 people in Wenzhou and became the most experienced practitioner in this industry.</p><p>A few years later, Zhou Chengjian, who was already the chairman of Metersbonwe, visited partner companies. When those factory owners boasted to him about their company's \"strong production capacity\", Zhou Chengjian said with a smile, \"At least 30% of the employees in your workshop are novices, and I can know their proficiency by listening to the sound of them stepping on sewing machines.\"</p><p>At that time, he was indeed an authentic \"Wenzhou tailor\".</p><p><b>02</b></p><p><b>Leather bag company and net fishing</b></p><p>In April, 1995, Zhou Chengjian opened the first Metersbonwe store in Wenzhou. In order to attract customers, he paved all Wuma Street in Wenzhou with a red carpet and went directly to Meibang stores.</p><p>The name of Metersbonwe is said to come from ancient Chinese, which means \"beauty is special here, and it promotes the prestige of our country\".</p><p>\"I didn't leave the wholesale market because I had done well in the wholesale market, but I didn't think it was a long-term solution.\" Zhou Chengjian said that the clothing market in Wenzhou was \"irregular\" at that time. There was no fixed retail price for clothing, and everyone was bargaining. He felt that this model needed to be changed.</p><p>\"I wanted to be a brand with a clear price tag and no bargaining.\" So Metersbonwe was born.</p><p>However, Smith Barney's innovation in clothing retail doesn't stop there. Because of the lack of funds in the early stage, Zhou Chengjian figured out a set of \"money-saving but fast\" development model-he outsourced the heaviest part of traditional clothing enterprises-manufacturing and production, and he was only responsible for design and brand marketing. At the same time, he attracted franchisees on a large scale, which on the one hand reduced the burden of enterprises and quickly seized the market.</p><p>\"I want to make all-category clothing, but my own factory only made woven jackets at that time, and the factory was too busy, so I could only find the all-category supply chain in the society to support it. At the same time, I didn't want to spend so much money on opening a store, so I invited customers who used to do wholesale in the wholesale market to become my franchisees.\" Zhou Chengjian said that at that time, he often went to Guangdong to find cooperative suppliers to broaden the category.</p><p>\"Simply put, I am equivalent to outsourcing the production workshop and store, and apart from these two links, everything else is our own, such as branding, plate making, design and other links.\" Zhou Chengjian said that this model caused many questions in the early days of its establishment.</p><p>\"Either produce it yourself, or produce it yourself and then open a specialty store to sell it yourself. At that time, this model was called the real economy, so as soon as Smith Barney appeared, some people questioned me for'not doing my job properly '.\"</p><p>Zhou Chengjian recalled that around 1996, about one year after the establishment of Smith Barney, a colleague in the wholesale market accompanied the China Apparel Association to Smith Barney for research. After the visit, he said to Zhou Chengjian, \"If your company is still alive one year later, I will cut off my head and give it to you.\"</p><p>There is no doubt that every innovation is mixed with huge doubts.</p><p>Looking back today, Smith Barney created a very excellent business model at that time-like large clothing brands such as Nike and Adidas, they used an asset-light model to quickly mobilize social forces, and then incited a huge market cake.</p><p>\"I didn't do it after I wanted to understand the theory, but I verified the correctness of this model through these theories after I finished it. Looking back, I was not the first to adopt this model in the world. Many brands in Europe and America are global OEM. This model has already existed, but I didn't know it at that time.\" Zhou Chengjian said that in the whole world, he was not an innovator, but in Zhejiang at that time, he was the \"first person\".</p><p>Around 1998, Zhang Dejiang, then secretary of Zhejiang Provincial Party Committee, went to Wenzhou for investigation. After listening to Zhou Chengjian's speech, Secretary Zhang said, \"Xiao Zhou, you have a good model. You are borrowing chickens to lay eggs and fishing by nets.\"</p><p>Subsequently, the secretary approved a long paragraph in the materials of Smith Barney, hoping that the national reporter stations in Zhejiang Province would vigorously publicize it, so that everyone could study Smith Barney and learn the Smith Barney model.</p><p>Overnight, Zhou Chengcheng became the representative of \"fishing by net\".</p><p>After a brief controversy, the \"asset-light\" model soon showed its advantages.</p><p>From its establishment in 1995 to its listing in 2008, in just 13 years, Smith Barney created a myth of rapid rise.</p><p>\"When it went public, Smith Barney had more than 5 billion retail sales and nearly 1,000 stores, surpassing many companies established earlier than us. Compared with various data such as scale, influence, and professional ability, we are the first in the industry, or even the second and third places may only add up to 2/3 of ours.\"</p><p>Zhou Chengjian said that to this day, he feels that this model has no obvious shortcomings, and \"Smith Barney's dilemma is that he didn't adhere to the key points in this model, such as product development and supply chain management.\" Behind this is the consequence of his own \"out of the circle\".</p><p><b>03</b></p><p><b>\"Change and unchanged\" after leaving the circle</b></p><p>A bad result of \"out of the circle\" is the increase of \"inventory\".</p><p>\"Clothing resources should be in the workshop, on the production line instead of in the warehouse. High inventory is an abnormal phenomenon. On the one hand, it occupies the warehouse area, increases circulation costs, financial costs, and trend lagging costs, etc.\" Zhou Chengjian said that the inventory backlog is closely related to his original \"out-of-circle\" behavior.</p><p>Specifically, in the past ten years, Smith Barney has made some mistakes in supply chain management and channel expansion.</p><p>\"Why was our sell-out rate of 97% at the end of the quarter before 2008? This is actually inseparable from the product research and development, technology landing and commodity supply chain capabilities behind it.\" Zhou Chengjian said that two wrong decisions in the supply chain indirectly led to the decrease in the sell-out rate.</p><p>At the beginning of its establishment, Smith Barney outsourced \"workshops and stores\", while its brand and design capabilities were in its own hands. They had their own design and R&D team, which could develop the most fashionable clothing according to market needs. However, after listing, a vice president made a suggestion to Zhou Chengjian to \"socialize the design and technical links\".</p><p>Simply put, both ends of the design process are outsourced.</p><p>\"The designer draws a draft, draws it and hands it over to the production factory for trial production. It takes about half a month or a month to make the clothes. When it comes back, we will review and see if it is right.\" Zhou Chengjian said that after the company went public, he mixed up in other circles and didn't pay so much attention to the clothing circle, which made him make some wrong judgments.</p><p>\"At that time, the vice president suggested that this kind of outsourcing could save tens of millions of costs. After listening to it, I felt reasonable, so I acquiesced in this change.\"</p><p>Another change in the supply chain also appeared at this time.</p><p>\"Another vice president suggested that all the procurement of noodles and accessories should be socialized.\" Prior to this, Smith Barney's supply chain was relatively closed, and they would choose some long-term cooperative suppliers to purchase. After socialization, they became the purchase of raw materials for the whole society.</p><p>\"After studying at China Europe Business School, the vice president made a related academic paper. After studying, he came to me and told me about socializing the supply chain, saying that this would save a lot of costs.\" Zhou Chengjian said that although these measures were all suggestions made by the vice president, the problem still lies with himself. \"Because I am the authorizer, the manager and the supporter.\"</p><p>These measures have indeed helped Smith Barney save costs in the short term, but on the other hand, they also mean that Smith Barney has lost its ability to respond quickly in the supply chain and its ability to control product quality.</p><p>\"After the design is outsourced, a lot of time cost is increased. The designer's design draft and the manufacturer's finished product are mailed back and forth for modification. Often, it takes a lot of time for clothes in a season to achieve the ideal sense of design and quality.\" Zhou Chengjian said that at that time, he didn't care about these details when he was \"out of the circle\", which led them to \"toss back and forth\" and reduced the design and production efficiency.</p><p>In terms of channels, Smith Barney sticks to some outdated standards.</p><p>\"At that time, the person in charge of the channel repeatedly suggested that I make changes to retail operation and channel planning, but I didn't listen to his advice.\" Zhou Chengjian said that the person in charge repeatedly stressed to him that the stores of Metersbonwe and ME&CITY should be adjusted. For example, ME&CITY should not open a large store, but should go to the shopping center business district to open a moderate area store. At the same time, Smith Barney stores should not be based on the Big Mac store on Nanjing Road, Shanghai, and other stores should be found to make standard copies.</p><p>And he didn't adopt these suggestions.</p><p>\"Looking back, the biggest change in the market in the past decade is the change of channels and retail methods. ME&CITY is positioned to serve the new middle class, and the target group is urban white-collar workers. In the past decade, the probability of urban white-collar workers going to traditional commercial streets has decreased. This group of people prefer to go shopping in shopping malls, so ME&CITY should set up stores in shopping malls such as Vientiane CITY, Longhu Tiandi and Kerry Center instead of staying in Huaihai Road or Nanjing Road. Correspondingly, Smith Barney stores can set up stores in traditional business districts, but the flagship store on Nanjing East Road should not be used as the standard. This store is too large and can be used as a flagship store, but it cannot be promoted nationwide. \" Zhou Chengjian said that during the \"out-of-the-circle\" period, because he didn't know enough about the market conditions, he \"didn't listen to what should be heard, but listened to everything that shouldn't be heard.\"</p><p>Zhou Chengjian reflected on the reasons for his two wrong decisions: \"Product R&D and supply chain belong to back-office management. Once the back-office doesn't contact, it will forget what is right and what is wrong, so when I receive these suggestions, I feel that I can't judge what is right or wrong, and then choose to listen to their suggestions; However, retail and channels belong to the front desk. I see a lot and have a lot of contact with the front desk every day. Even if I leave the circle, I still feel that I am in this situation, so I fall into the experience trap.</p><p>Zhou Chengjian admitted that after leaving the circle at that time, he \"broke away from the analysis in the industry, and just listened to suggestions from an emotional perspective.\" And this eventually led to more detours for Smith Barney.</p><p><b>04</b></p><p><b>Reflections on \"Banggou\" and \"Youfaner\" APP</b></p><p>Of course, \"leaving the circle\" is not all a bad thing. From another perspective, Zhou Chengjian, who stands in a higher circle, also sees greater opportunities and benefits from the exchange of information \"outside the circle\". He made two major attempts in the Internet industry in 2010 and 2014.</p><p>In 2010, when Smith Barney was at its peak, Zhou Chengjian launched Smith Barney's own e-commerce platform \"Bangou.com\". Through this e-commerce platform, consumers can scan codes for consumption in physical stores, and can also realize many functions such as online shopping and offline returns.</p><p>In the first year of its launch, the turnover of Smith Barney's single brand on Banggou Online was 300 million, which is a very good figure, but unfortunately, Banggou Online only lasted for about one year before it ended sadly.</p><p>Another more significant attempt by Zhou Chengjian appeared four years later. In 2014, Metersbonwe won the overall title of Qipa Shuo with 50 million yuan; In April of the following year, the \"Youfan\" APP was launched; Subsequently, the \"Youfan\" APP successively won the title of the second and third seasons of \"Qipa Shuo\".</p><p>Youfan is an experience platform focusing on \"fashion matching\". Users can communicate with professional stylists at zero distance through this APP, choose their own style from a large number of personalized brands, get customized exclusive suggestions, and place orders in real time for sharing and interaction.</p><p>From today's point of view, Youfan is a \"social e-commerce\" APP. He has all the attributes of social e-commerce, and thanks to the drainage of Qipa Shuo, Youfan ushered in a \"good start\"-the first night of its launch, it attracted 500,000 users, and these people uploaded 100,000 selfies.</p><p>However, this APP failed to go far in the market. In August 2017, the \"Youfan\" APP announced its offline.</p><p>Zhou Chengjian said that both Banggou and Youfan have actually seized the window period, which can be verified from Vipshop and Xiaohongshu, which rose at the same time. However, Banggou and Youfan have failed to go far. The key reason is that \"I don't understand it at all.\"</p><p>\"Banggou and Youfan are both positioned in our own channels, but failed to expand to the platform attribute. We always want to make them a new channel of Smith Barney, but never think of making them a mass platform that can cover more brands. This is the result of laymen's blind investment without understanding this matter.\" Zhou Chengjian metaphorically said that no matter Nanjing East Road, Tmall and Suning are actually social channels. \"The business district needs groups, this is the business district. And I positioned Banggou and Youfan as Smith Barney's own channel, just like opening a Metersbonwe store in Smith Barney.</p><p>He said that the experience given to himself by this incident is that \"decisions made from outside the circle should be done in ways outside the circle, and you can't follow the methods inside the circle, otherwise you will definitely fail.\"</p><p><b>05</b></p><p><b>regression</b></p><p>After nearly ten years of twists and turns, Zhou Chengjian decided to return to the status of \"tailor\".</p><p>\"There is no way out. The company is doing so badly. Unless I give up, I have to think about doing him well again.\" Since 2018, Zhou Chengjian began to gradually return, and the first thing he did after his return was to \"correct mistakes\".</p><p>He reorganized Smith Barney's current channels and supply chain, and is trying to make up for the original \"wrong decision.\"</p><p>\"Our key problem now is resource dislocation. I asked the team to rethink how to make and sell clothes? For example, how to sell clothes? How to match the current resources to the corresponding channels.\"</p><p>Subsequently, Smith Barney conducted a global channel classification analysis on online and offline.</p><p>\"Whether it's the traditional online JD.COM, Tmall or the newly emerging social e-commerce platform, as well as offline business districts, shopping malls, etc., we hope to analyze and plan these global channels to find out who we want to sell to? How to sell the answer, sort out these questions, and then do product planning and supply chain support based on this precise market.\"</p><p>In 2015, in order to break the circle, Smith Barney launched the \"five major styles\", namely casual NEWear, trendy HYSTYL, urban light business Nōvachic, street fashion MTEE, and forest ASELF. Smith Barney hopes that these diverse styles can satisfy more consumers.</p><p>\"This strategy is right, but now from the perspective of simplification, they can't meet the market demand individually. We need to go deep into these styles and gradually clarify their consumer groups and consumption regions. For example, the trend system sells well in the Northeast, but we dominate resources on average across the country, which is'resource dislocation '.\"</p><p>Currently, Zhou Chengjian is accurately matching the five styles with channels and regional markets. \"Based on market demand and combined with the company's capabilities, I will focus on a certain style first, and then gradually implement it, breaking through one by one.\"</p><p>In addition to accurate matching of channels, supply chain management has also become the focus of Smith Barney's self-help.</p><p>They took back the \"technology research and development\" link that was blindly outsourced at the beginning, reorganized the supply chain, and realized a \"closed-loop path from trends to clothes.\"</p><p>\"We now have our own design team and sample clothing factory. The design and production of sample clothing are all completed internally, which greatly improves the efficiency and increases the controllability of clothing design and quality. We have just finished the research and development of ME&CITY in the autumn of 2021, and the company is very satisfied with this season's products.\"</p><p>In terms of channels, Zhou Chengjian finally changed the standards he had previously insisted on, reorganized the channel standards, and readjusted them from \"placement\" to area.</p><p>\"In addition, we also sort out the accurate matching products of different channels, and the whole operation work is more refined, standardized and replicable, so that franchisees also have confidence.\"</p><p>\"Through the sorting out in the second half of last year, many partners returned to join and cooperate a few years ago. The number of our joins in the first quarter of this year (2021) has reached the scale of last year. In the first quarter, it has been determined that the area of developed stores has been larger than that of last year. The development area of one year.\"</p><p>\"I hope Smith Barney can regain its core competitiveness and let the whole company return to the business of making and selling clothes. Now I think we have a very clear strategy and path, but we haven't fully achieved this core advantage, and now we have just embarked on the journey back.\"</p><p>Zhou Chengjian has indeed taken an \"unusual path\" from entering Wenzhou alone as a teenager, becoming the richest man in the clothing industry when he went public, and then returning to the original intention of \"tailoring\" today.</p><p>\"It is very difficult for people to know themselves, and it is even more difficult to manage themselves. Through repeated tossing, we always grow up and mature, and we will always know ourselves better than before. I have tossed and experienced it. If there is still a chance to return, this is a blessing in itself... Today, if people can still label me a 'tailor', I will be satisfied.\" Zhou Chengjian said with a teacup backed by a huge glass window.</p>\n<div class=\"bt-text\">\n\n\n<p> source：<a href=\"https://mp.weixin.qq.com/s/Xr9zecdJ2WDX3N_tPWSpZA\">商业江湖</a></p>\n\n\n</div>\n</article>\n</div>\n</body>\n</html>\n","type":0,"thumbnail":"https://static.tigerbbs.com/d4130e6389dd597b1fd98bec5929e58b","relate_stocks":{"002269":"美邦服饰"},"source_url":"https://mp.weixin.qq.com/s/Xr9zecdJ2WDX3N_tPWSpZA","is_english":false,"share_image_url":"https://static.laohu8.com/e9f99090a1c2ed51c021029395664489","article_id":"1144988792","content_text":"2008年美特斯邦威在深交所挂牌上市，在上市仪式上，美邦创始人周成建向深交所赠送了一台镀金小缝纫机，他说：“我最早是一个村庄的裁缝，现在有幸成为中国的裁缝，希望以后还能成为全球的裁缝。”\n此后，“中国裁缝”成为周成建最重要的标签，他在多个场合重复这个说法。\n但13年后，周成建开始反思自己的“言行不一”。\n2021年1月28日，坐在上海康桥美邦总部办公室里，周成建对《商业江湖》说，“表面上我一直强调自己做‘中国裁缝’，但实际上，在过去的若干年里我一度脱离服装圈，很少了解行业的变化，正是这种‘脱圈’行为让美邦出现今天的困局。”\n十年前，美邦有着漂亮的财报数据。\n2008年，美特斯邦威的净利润已经达到5.88亿元，而他们在2011年达到顶峰，当年美邦在全国开设了5000多家连锁店，实现营收99.45亿元、净利12.06亿元。\n“那时，我们是国内供应链能力最强的服装公司，我们季末售罄率可以达到95-97%，甚至季中补单还可以做到45%左右，而现在我们的季末售罄率只有50-60%。”周成建说。\n回头看，2008年是周成建“裁缝生涯”的拐点，此前他“所有的精力都在服装这个圈子，经常跑到米兰、巴黎和当地设计师交流服装设计”，而上市后，他“从一个农民变成上市公司老板，混不同圈子机会也多了，整个人自信过头，跑偏了。”\n“有些人混圈子不管怎么混都不会忘记自己，而我混着混着把自己姓什么忘了。”\n“我天天把‘裁缝’当做口号，但本质上又忘了裁缝，行为不基于裁缝就造成了今天的麻烦，而现在我在公司里强调‘唤醒和回归’就是希望从我做起，唤醒对‘做衣服’的执念，回归服装圈。”\n从草莽创业，到迷失自我，再到唤醒回归，周成建在一个多小时的采访中向《商业江湖》回顾了自己的创业史，并表示现在他知道自己姓什么了。\n“我是姓‘裁缝’的人。”他说。\n01\n“半截袖”的大跃进\n最初，周成建确实是一个裁缝。\n他14岁时随着亲戚学做衣服，后来到温州做服装代加工，主要为妙果寺批发商供货。\n“做代加工一般都是下午接单，第二天中午交货，最长也不会超过72小时，因为客人不会等这么久。”周成建说，那时他忙的焦头烂额，白天接活晚上裁剪，困了就在剪板上放上被子睡觉。\n“那时候我们圈里流行一句调侃‘白天当老板，晚上睡地板。’”他说。\n忙中出错，一天在裁剪时，周成建画错了尺寸，将一沓布料多裁了十几厘米，导致这批西装的袖子短了一截。随后他“被客户骂的狗血淋头”，对方让他赔偿十几万。\n无奈之下周成建去市场上买了另一种布料来拼接衣袖，为了掩盖失误，他将西装的直袖改成了拼色的夹克袖，然后请客户“试着卖一下，能卖就卖，卖不了损失多少我自己赔付。”\n出乎意料的是这种拼接西服受到市场的追捧，很快就抢购一空，甚至很多人前来“追单”。\n就这样“拼接版的休闲西服”横空出世，成为一个新的服装品类。\n“我以前认为自己只是帮人家做衣服，但经过这个事情之后我意识到我还可以创造衣服，此后我开始在做衣服上花心思，别家是买过来一件衣服仿照着裁剪，而我会将衣服改一些细节，比如改个袖子或者口袋，这样衣服就显得与众不同，生意也就比别人的好一些。”周成建说，“半截袖事件”是自己事业上的一个突破点。\n经此一役，周成建也闯出了名声，随后他在妙果寺开设了自己的服装摊位，形成了“前店后厂”的经营模式，白天接单晚上回厂里裁剪加工。这种模式下，采购、设计、缝制、销售等环节，全部自己做，随后他在温州开办了500多人的制衣工厂，成为这个行业最具经验的从业者。\n数年后，已经是美特斯邦威董事长的周成建去合作伙伴公司参观，在那些工厂老板跟他夸口自己公司“生产能力多强”的时候，周成建会笑着说，“你们车间至少有三成员工是新手，我听他们踩缝纫机的声音就能知道他们的熟练程度。”\n那时候的他确实是一个地道的“温州裁缝”。\n02\n皮包公司和借网捕鱼\n1995年4月，周成建在温州开设了第一家美特斯邦威专卖店，为了吸引顾客，他将温州五马街全部铺上了红地毯，直通美邦门店。\n美特斯邦威的名字据说源自古风中文，意指“美丽特别斯于此，扬我国邦之威”。\n“我离开批发市场并非是在批发市场已经做的很好，而是我觉得这样下去不是长久之计。”周成建说当时温州服装市场“不规范”，服装都没有固定的零售价格，所有人都在讨价还价，他觉得这种模式需要改一改。\n“我想要做一个明码标价，不讨价还价的品牌。”于是美特斯邦威诞生了。\n不过美邦对于服装零售的创新不止于此，因为前期资金不足，周成建琢磨出一套“省钱但快速的”发展模式——他将传统服装企业最重的部分——制造、生产外包，自身只负责设计和品牌营销，同时大规模的招徕加盟商，这样一方面减轻了企业负担，同时也快速的抢占了市场。\n“我要做全品类的服装，但我自己的工厂当时只做梭织夹克，工厂也忙不过来，所以我只能找社会上的全品类供应链来支撑，同时开店方面我也不想花那么多钱，于是把曾经在批发市场做批发的客户邀请过来成为我的加盟商。”周成建说，那时候他经常去广东找合作供应商，去拓宽品类。\n“简单的说我相当于把生产车间和门店外包了，而这两个环节之外，其他东西都是我们自己的，比如品牌、制版、设计等环节自己做。”周成建说，这个模式在创立初期引发了诸多质疑。\n“要么自己生产，要么自己生产再自己开专卖店销售，那时候这种模式才叫实体经济，所以美邦一出现就有人质疑我‘不务正业’。”\n周成建回忆说，1996年前后，也就是美邦成立一年左右，批发市场的一个同行随同“中国服饰协会”到美邦做调研，参观完后对周成建说，“一年之后你的公司如果还活着，我把头割下来送给你。”\n毫无疑问，每一次创新都夹杂着巨大的质疑。\n站在今天回头看，当时的美邦创立了一个非常优秀的商业模式——像Nike、阿迪等大型服饰品牌一样，他们用了一种轻资产模式快速发动社会力量，继而撬动了一个巨大的市场蛋糕。\n“我不是想明白了理论之后再去做的，而是做完了之后通过这些理论验证了这个模式的正确性，回头看我在全世界并不是最早采用这个模式的，欧美很多品牌都是全球代工，这种模式早已存在，只是当时的我并不知道。”周成建说，放到全世界来看，他不是创新者，但在当时的浙江，他是“第一人”。\n1998年前后，时任浙江省委书记的张德江到温州调研，在听取了周成建的发言后，张书记说，“小周，你这个模式好，你这是借鸡生蛋，借网捕鱼。”\n随后，书记在美邦的材料中批复了很长的一段话，希望全国驻浙江省记者站大力宣传，让大家研究美邦，学习美邦模式。\n一夜之间，周成建成为“借网捕鱼”的代表者。\n在经过短暂的争议后，“轻资产”模式很快就显现出他的优势。\n从1995年创立到2008年上市，在短短的13年里，美邦创造了一个快速崛起的神话。\n“上市时美邦零售额50多亿，有近千家门店，超越了许多比我们成立更早的公司，从规模、影响力、专业能力等各项数据比较我们都是行业第一名，甚至第二、第三名加起来可能只是我们的2/3。”\n周成建说，直到今天，他都觉得这个模式没有明显的缺点，而“美邦的困境在于自己没有坚持这个模式中的关键点，比如产品研发和供应链管理。”而这背后正是他自己“脱离了圈子”造成的后果。\n03\n离圈后的“变和不变”\n“离圈”造成的一个坏结果是“库存”增加。\n“服装资源应该在车间里，在生产线上而不是在仓库里，库存高是不正常的现象，一方面占用仓库面积，增加流通成本、财务成本，还有趋势滞后成本等等。”周成建说，库存积压和自己当初的“离圈”行为息息相关。\n具体而言，在过去的十年间，美邦在供应链管理和渠道拓展上都犯了一些错误。\n“为什么2008年之前我们季末售罄率可以做到97%？这其实和背后的产品研发、技术落地和以及商品供应链能力密不可分。”周成建说，供应链的两个失误决定间接导致了售罄率的降低。\n创立初期，美邦将“车间和门店”都外包，而品牌和设计能力都在自己手中，他们有自己的设计研发团队，可以根据市场需要来研发最时尚的服装，但在上市之后，一个副总向周成建提出建议“将设计和技术环节社会化”。\n简单的说就是将设计环节的两端都外包出去。\n“设计师画一个稿，画好交给生产工厂试生产，做好衣服大概需要半个月、一个月，拿回来我们审核看做的对不对。”周成建说，公司上市后，他混迹于其他圈子，对于服装圈没那么关注，这让他做了一些错误的判断。\n“当时那个副总建议说，这种外包可以节约几千万的成本，我听完之后觉得有道理，于是默许了这种改变。”\n而另一个供应链端的改变也在此时出现。\n“另一个副总建议将面辅料采购全部社会化。”在此之前，美邦的供应链相对封闭，他们会选择一些长期合作的供应商来采购，社会化之后成为面向全社会采购原料。\n“那个副总在中欧商学院读书后，做了一个相关的学术论文，学完之后就来和我说把供应链社会化，说这样可以节约一大批成本。”周成建说，虽然这些举措都是副总做出的建议，但问题还是出在自己身上。“因为我是授权者，管理者和支持者。”\n这些举措确实帮助美邦在短期内节约了成本，但另一方面也意味着美邦失去了供应链的快速响应能力，以及对产品质量的把控能力。\n“设计外包之后，增加了大量的时间成本，设计师的设计稿和生产厂商的成品来回邮寄修改，往往一季衣服花费了大量时间还没有能达到理想的设计感和品质感。”周成建说，那时候自己“离圈”并不关心这些细节，导致他们“来来回回折腾”，降低了设计生产效率。\n而在渠道方面，美邦却固守了一些陈旧的标准。\n“当时渠道负责人反复建议我对零售运营和渠道规划作出改变，但我却没有听从他的建议。”周成建说，该负责人反复向他强调，应该对美特斯邦威和ME&CITY的门店进行调整，比如ME&CITY不应该开大店，而应该去购物中心商圈开适度面积的店，同时美邦门店不应该基于上海南京路巨无霸店做标准，要找另外的店铺做标准复制。\n而这些建议他也都没有采纳。\n“回头看，过去十年市场上最大的变化是渠道变化和零售方式的变化。ME&CITY定位为新中产阶级服务，目标群体是都市白领阶层，而过去十年间都市白领去传统商业街的几率在降低，这部分人群更喜欢去购物中心购物，所以ME&CITY更应该去如万象城、龙湖天地、嘉里中心这样的购物中心设置门店，而不是继续呆在淮海路或者南京路。与此对应，美邦的门店是可以在传统商圈设店，但不应该以南京东路的旗舰店作为标准，这家店面积太大，可以作为旗舰店，但不能全国推广。”周成建说，在“离圈”期间，因为他不够了解市场行情导致“该听的没听，不该听的都听了。”\n周成建反思自己这两个错误决定的原因：“产品研发和供应链是属于后台管理，后台一旦不接触会忘掉什么是对，什么是错，所以在接到这些建议时我觉得自己无法判断对错，进而选择听从他们的建议；但零售和渠道属于前台，前台我日常看的多，接触的多，就算离圈了，还觉得自己在这个情境里，于是陷入经验陷阱，坚持自己的决定，不愿接受建议。”\n周成建承认，自己当时离圈后“脱离了行业内的分析，只是站在一个情绪去听建议。”而这最终导致了美邦走更多的弯路。\n04\n“邦购”和“有范儿”APP的反思\n当然，“离圈”并不全是坏事，从另一个角度看，站在更高圈层的周成建也看到了更大的机会，受益于“圈外”信息的交流，他曾在2010年和2014年在互联网行业进行过两次重大的尝试。\n2010年，也就是美邦最如日中天的时刻，周成建推出了美邦自己的电商平台“邦购网”。借由这个电商平台，消费者可以在实体店内扫码消费，也能实现线上购物和线下退换等多项功能。\n上线第一年，邦购网上美邦单品牌成交量3亿，这是一个很不错的数据，但令人遗憾的是，邦购网仅坚持了一年左右就黯然收场。\n周成建另一个更重大的尝试出现在4年后。2014年，美特斯邦威以5000万拿下《奇葩说》的总冠名；次年4月份，推出“有范”APP；随后，“有范”APP又相继拿下《奇葩说》第二季和第三季的冠名。\n有范是一个主打“潮流时尚搭配的体验平台”，用户可以通过该APP与专业造型师零距离沟通，在大量个性化品牌中挑选适合自己的风格，获得定制化专属建议，并实时下单，进行分享、互动。\n以今天的眼光看，有范就是一款“社交电商”APP，他具有了社交电商的所有属性，受益于奇葩说的引流，有范迎来了“开门红”——上线的第一天晚上就引来了50万用户，这些人上传了10万条自拍内容。\n但这款APP在市场上也未能走远，2017年8月“有范”APP宣布下线。\n周成建说，邦购和有范其实都抓住了窗口期，这从二者同期崛起的唯品会和小红书就可以得到验证，但是邦购和有范又都未能走远，最关键的原因还在于“自己根本就没搞懂”。\n“邦购和有范都是定位于我们自己的渠道，而未能扩大到平台属性。我们总想着让他们成为美邦的新渠道，而没有想过把他们做成一个可以涵盖更多品牌的大众平台。这就是外行人没看懂这个事情就盲目投入的结果。”周成建比喻说，无论南京东路、还是天猫、苏宁其实都是社会渠道，“商圈需要群体，这才是商圈。而自己将邦购和有范都定位成美邦自己的渠道，这就像是在美邦厂区开了一个美特斯邦威的专卖店一样，这个逻辑本身就是错的，不可能成功，但当时我没想明白。”\n他说，这件事给自己的经验是“从圈外作出的决定就要用圈外的方式来做事，不能再沿袭圈内的方法，不然一定失败。”\n05\n回归\n经历了近十年的波折后，周成建决定回归“裁缝”身份。\n“没有退路了，企业做的这么糟糕，除非我放弃，不然我就要想着把他再次做好。”从2018年后，周成建开始逐步回归，而他回归后的第一件事就是“纠错”。\n他重新梳理了美邦当前的渠道和供应链，正努力弥补当初的“错误决定。”\n“我们现在的关键问题是资源错位，我让团队重新思考如何做衣服、卖衣服？比如衣服怎么卖？如何将当前的资源匹配到相应的渠道中去。”\n随后美邦对线上线下做了全域渠道分类分析。\n“无论是线上传统的京东、天猫还是新近崛起的社交电商平台，以及线下的商圈、购物中心等等我们希望针对这些全域渠道做剖析和规划，找到我们想卖给谁？怎么卖的答案，将这些问题梳理清楚后在基于这种精准市场来做产品规划和供应链支持。”\n2015年，为了破圈，美邦推出了“五大风格”即休闲风NEWear、潮流范HYSTYL、都市轻商务Nōvachic、街头潮趣MTEE、森系ASELF，美邦希望这些多元的风格能满足更多的消费者。\n“这个策略是对的，但现在从单一化来看，他们单个无法满足市场需求。我们需要深入到这些风格中逐步的厘清他们消费群体以及消费地域，比如潮流系在东北就卖的很好，但我们在全国平均支配资源，这就是‘资源错位’。”\n当前，周成建正在将五种风格和渠道、区域市场做精准的匹配，“基于市场需求，再结合公司能力，我先聚焦某一个风格，再逐步落实，一个一个攻破。”\n除了渠道做精准匹配之外，供应链的管理也成为美邦自救的重点。\n他们收回了当初盲目外包的“技术研发”环节，重新梳理了供应链，实现了“从趋势到衣服的闭环路径。”\n“我们现在有自己的设计团队和样衣工厂，样衣的设计、生产都在我们内部完成，这极大的提高了效率，而且增加了服饰设计、质量的可控性，我们刚刚做完ME&CITY2021年秋的研发，公司内部对这季产品都非常满意。”\n在渠道方面，周成建终于改变了他此前坚持的标准，重新梳理了渠道标准，从“落位”到面积进行了重新调整。\n“另外也对不同渠道精准匹配产品做梳理，整个营运工作更精细、更标准化，更可复制化，这样加盟商也有了信心。”\n“通过去年下半年的梳理，很多若干年前和合作伙伴重新回来加盟合作，我们今年（2021年）第一季度加盟数字已经达到去年一年的规模，一季度已经确定开发店铺的面积已经大于去年一年的开发面积。”\n“我希望美邦重新找回自己的核心竞争力，让公司上下重新回归去做衣服和卖衣服的事业上，现在我觉得我们在策略上、路径上已经非常清楚了，但还没有完全做到这种核心优势，现在刚踏上回归的路程。”\n从十几岁只身闯温州，到上市暴富成为服装圈首富，再到今天回归“裁缝”初衷，周成建确实走了一条“不寻常的道路”。\n“人了解自己是非常难的，管理自己更难，通过反复的折腾我们总要成长成熟，总会比以前更加了解自己。我折腾过了，也经历过了，如果还有机会重新回归，这本身就是一种福报……今天，如果人们还能给我贴上‘裁缝’的标签，我就满足了。”背靠巨大的玻璃窗，周成建捧着茶杯说。","news_type":1,"symbols_score_info":{"002269":0.9}},"isVote":1,"tweetType":1,"viewCount":2205,"authorTweetTopStatus":1,"verified":2,"comments":[],"imageCount":0,"langContent":"EN","totalScore":0}],"hots":[{"id":194585404,"gmtCreate":1621386979608,"gmtModify":1704356765374,"author":{"id":"3583575014073252","authorId":"3583575014073252","name":"恩嗯","avatar":"https://static.tigerbbs.com/a6e63e165d75d83d76b2bddad2635952","crmLevel":2,"crmLevelSwitch":0,"followedFlag":false,"idStr":"3583575014073252","authorIdStr":"3583575014073252"},"themes":[],"htmlText":"66666","listText":"66666","text":"66666","images":[],"top":1,"highlighted":1,"essential":1,"paper":1,"likeSize":2,"commentSize":0,"repostSize":0,"link":"https://ttm.financial/post/194585404","repostId":"1101398960","repostType":4,"isVote":1,"tweetType":1,"viewCount":2593,"authorTweetTopStatus":1,"verified":2,"comments":[],"imageCount":0,"langContent":"EN","totalScore":0},{"id":158025678,"gmtCreate":1625115129294,"gmtModify":1703736469341,"author":{"id":"3583575014073252","authorId":"3583575014073252","name":"恩嗯","avatar":"https://static.tigerbbs.com/a6e63e165d75d83d76b2bddad2635952","crmLevel":2,"crmLevelSwitch":0,"followedFlag":false,"idStr":"3583575014073252","authorIdStr":"3583575014073252"},"themes":[],"htmlText":"8888","listText":"8888","text":"8888","images":[],"top":1,"highlighted":1,"essential":1,"paper":1,"likeSize":1,"commentSize":0,"repostSize":0,"link":"https://ttm.financial/post/158025678","repostId":"1144302321","repostType":4,"repost":{"id":"1144302321","kind":"news","pubTimestamp":1625109902,"share":"https://ttm.financial/m/news/1144302321?lang=en_US&edition=fundamental","pubTime":"2021-07-01 11:25","market":"sh","language":"zh","title":"Brokerage gold stocks in July are released! Which stocks have received the most roll calls?","url":"https://stock-news.laohu8.com/highlight/detail?id=1144302321","media":"第一财经","summary":"机构指出，7月指数将持续震荡，随着中报行情展开，业绩为王，高景气成长是最小阻力方向，主题机会关注旺季线索。\n\n6月A股市场呈现窄幅震荡走势，科技股热点贯穿全月，7月如何寻找机会？截至6月30日，有14","content":"<p><div>The agency pointed out that the index will continue to fluctuate in July. As the mid-term report market unfolds, performance is king, and high prosperity growth is the direction of least resistance. Theme opportunities focus on peak season clues. In June, the A-share market showed a narrow range of fluctuations, and the hot spots of technology stocks ran through the whole month. How to look for opportunities in July? As of June 30th, 14 securities firms announced their monthly investment portfolios for July, involving non-banking, electrical, light industry, machinery, chemical industry, home appliances and other fields. Which stocks have received the most roll calls? According to incomplete statistics, among the \"golden stocks\" lists of various securities firms, the one that has received the most recommendations from institutions is still the \"securities firm Mao\" Oriental Fortune, with a total...</p><p><a href=\"https://www.yicai.com/news/101097403.html\">Web link</a></div></p>","source":"dyvj","collect":0,"html":"<!DOCTYPE html>\n<html>\n<head>\n<meta http-equiv=\"Content-Type\" content=\"text/html; charset=utf-8\" />\n<meta name=\"viewport\" content=\"width=device-width,initial-scale=1.0,minimum-scale=1.0,maximum-scale=1.0,user-scalable=no\"/>\n<meta name=\"format-detection\" content=\"telephone=no,email=no,address=no\" />\n<title>Brokerage gold stocks in July are released! Which stocks have received the most roll calls?</title>\n<style type=\"text/css\">\na,abbr,acronym,address,applet,article,aside,audio,b,big,blockquote,body,canvas,caption,center,cite,code,dd,del,details,dfn,div,dl,dt,\nem,embed,fieldset,figcaption,figure,footer,form,h1,h2,h3,h4,h5,h6,header,hgroup,html,i,iframe,img,ins,kbd,label,legend,li,mark,menu,nav,\nobject,ol,output,p,pre,q,ruby,s,samp,section,small,span,strike,strong,sub,summary,sup,table,tbody,td,tfoot,th,thead,time,tr,tt,u,ul,var,video{ font:inherit;margin:0;padding:0;vertical-align:baseline;border:0 }\nbody{ font-size:16px; line-height:1.5; color:#999; background:transparent; }\n.wrapper{ overflow:hidden;word-break:break-all;padding:10px; }\nh1,h2{ font-weight:normal; line-height:1.35; margin-bottom:.6em; }\nh3,h4,h5,h6{ line-height:1.35; margin-bottom:1em; }\nh1{ font-size:24px; }\nh2{ font-size:20px; }\nh3{ font-size:18px; }\nh4{ font-size:16px; }\nh5{ font-size:14px; }\nh6{ font-size:12px; }\np,ul,ol,blockquote,dl,table{ margin:1.2em 0; }\nul,ol{ margin-left:2em; }\nul{ list-style:disc; }\nol{ list-style:decimal; }\nli,li p{ margin:10px 0;}\nimg{ max-width:100%;display:block;margin:0 auto 1em; }\nblockquote{ color:#B5B2B1; border-left:3px solid #aaa; padding:1em; }\nstrong,b{font-weight:bold;}\nem,i{font-style:italic;}\ntable{ width:100%;border-collapse:collapse;border-spacing:1px;margin:1em 0;font-size:.9em; }\nth,td{ padding:5px;text-align:left;border:1px solid #aaa; }\nth{ font-weight:bold;background:#5d5d5d; }\n.symbol-link{font-weight:bold;}\n/* header{ border-bottom:1px solid #494756; } */\n.title{ margin:0 0 8px;line-height:1.3;color:#ddd; }\n.meta {color:#5e5c6d;font-size:13px;margin:0 0 .5em; }\na{text-decoration:none; color:#2a4b87;}\n.meta .head { display: inline-block; overflow: hidden}\n.head .h-thumb { width: 30px; height: 30px; margin: 0; padding: 0; border-radius: 50%; float: left;}\n.head .h-content { margin: 0; padding: 0 0 0 9px; float: left;}\n.head .h-name {font-size: 13px; color: #eee; margin: 0;}\n.head .h-time {font-size: 12.5px; color: #7E829C; margin: 0;}\n.small {font-size: 12.5px; display: inline-block; transform: scale(0.9); -webkit-transform: scale(0.9); transform-origin: left; -webkit-transform-origin: left;}\n.smaller {font-size: 12.5px; display: inline-block; transform: scale(0.8); -webkit-transform: scale(0.8); transform-origin: left; -webkit-transform-origin: left;}\n.bt-text {font-size: 12px;margin: 1.5em 0 0 0}\n.bt-text p {margin: 0}\n</style>\n</head>\n<body>\n<div class=\"wrapper\">\n<header>\n<h2 class=\"title\">\nBrokerage gold stocks in July are released! Which stocks have received the most roll calls?\n</h2>\n<h4 class=\"meta\">\n<p class=\"head\">\n<strong class=\"h-name small\">第一财经</strong><span class=\"h-time small\">2021-07-01 11:25</span>\n</p>\n</h4>\n</header>\n<article>\n<p><div>The agency pointed out that the index will continue to fluctuate in July. As the mid-term report market unfolds, performance is king, and high prosperity growth is the direction of least resistance. Theme opportunities focus on peak season clues. In June, the A-share market showed a narrow range of fluctuations, and the hot spots of technology stocks ran through the whole month. How to look for opportunities in July? As of June 30th, 14 securities firms announced their monthly investment portfolios for July, involving non-banking, electrical, light industry, machinery, chemical industry, home appliances and other fields. Which stocks have received the most roll calls? According to incomplete statistics, among the \"golden stocks\" lists of various securities firms, the one that has received the most recommendations from institutions is still the \"securities firm Mao\" Oriental Fortune, with a total...</p><p><a href=\"https://www.yicai.com/news/101097403.html\">Web link</a></div></p>\n<div class=\"bt-text\">\n\n\n<p> source：<a href=\"https://www.yicai.com/news/101097403.html\">第一财经</a></p>\n\n\n</div>\n</article>\n</div>\n</body>\n</html>\n","type":0,"thumbnail":"https://static.tigerbbs.com/4a10424fe3b1f29e8d28fdc0dc474e86","relate_stocks":{"399001":"深证成指","399006":"创业板指","000001.SH":"上证指数"},"source_url":"https://www.yicai.com/news/101097403.html","is_english":false,"share_image_url":"https://static.laohu8.com/e9f99090a1c2ed51c021029395664489","article_id":"1144302321","content_text":"机构指出，7月指数将持续震荡，随着中报行情展开，业绩为王，高景气成长是最小阻力方向，主题机会关注旺季线索。\n\n6月A股市场呈现窄幅震荡走势，科技股热点贯穿全月，7月如何寻找机会？截至6月30日，有14家券商公布了7月月度投资组合，涉及非银、电气、轻工、机械、化工、家电等多个领域。\n\n哪些个股收获点名最多？\n据不完全统计，在各家券商的“金股”名单中，获机构推荐次数最多的依旧是“券商茅”东方财富，共获得5家券商的推荐，该股6月月内累计涨3.11%，最新收盘价为32.79元。\n此外，药明康德获得国泰君安、兴业证券、浙商证券3家券商的推荐。该股6月内涨幅明显，达12.62%，最新收盘价为156.59元。\n从涨跌幅来看，获两家及以上券商推荐的个股中，港股爱帝宫涨幅最大，该股6月内大涨65.75%，最新收盘价为1.21港元；跌幅最大的是泸州老窖，6月内跌超14%，报235.94元。\n\n后市怎么走？\n展望后市，券商普遍表示，7月股市将持续震荡，而中报行情将成为市场亮点。\n华金证券指出，7月份扰动增加，震荡恐将加剧，但在海内外流动性预期暂时好转背景下，结构性行情有望延续。\n浙商证券也指出，7月指数将持续震荡，随着中报行情展开，业绩为王，高景气成长是最小阻力方向，主题机会关注旺季线索。\n银河证券认为，7月是中报及中报预告披露期，业绩高增长主导结构性机会。经济金融环境暂维持相对利好权益资产，但是A股市场已反弹至高位，增量资金进场缓慢，后续需谨慎追涨，适当降低预期。\n西南证券也认为，经过前期的快速上涨，同时随着中报陆陆续续公布，中报行情有望迎来业绩兑现期，需要适当转向防御，以巩固前期的上涨成果。\n哪些行业最受青睐？\n配置方向上，券商依旧看好顺周期板块未来行情，计算机、医药、新能源等成长板块也受到券商关注，此外，关注中报业绩高增长主线。\n开源证券研报指出，周期股的重定价时刻正在来临，当投资者认识到供给约束的持续性与通胀并非短期，那么在业绩持续验证下，周期股的长期盈利能力将在全市场内显得极具性价比。同时，环境的变化也正在扭转高杠杆经营公司长期的不利地位。开始重新把前期回调较多，受到市场约束较多的成长型周期股纳入到推荐中。\n兴业证券研报称，成长仍是主旋律但是要立足性价比，中报行情可布局绩优股。成长板块围绕4条主线，找长期性价比合适的机会：\n\n 1、AIoT（计算机、通信、电子）；\n\n\n 2、医药（医疗器械、医疗服务）；\n\n\n 3、新能源链条（新能源材料、锂电设备、汽车、智能驾驶）；\n\n\n 4、高端制造设备（半导体设备、军工）。\n\n同时，兴业证券强调，中报行情不容忽视，如机械、军工、化工、交运等行业的绩优股。\n银河证券也认为，景气度向上、中报业绩高增长是主线：关注需求强劲的上游周期品；医疗美容、化妆品、智能家电等消费升级主题；产业数字化、碳中和等国家战略方向。","news_type":1,"symbols_score_info":{"399001":0.9,"399006":0.9,"000001.SH":0.9}},"isVote":1,"tweetType":1,"viewCount":2467,"authorTweetTopStatus":1,"verified":2,"comments":[],"imageCount":0,"langContent":"EN","totalScore":0},{"id":128111270,"gmtCreate":1624505564490,"gmtModify":1703838672344,"author":{"id":"3583575014073252","authorId":"3583575014073252","name":"恩嗯","avatar":"https://static.tigerbbs.com/a6e63e165d75d83d76b2bddad2635952","crmLevel":2,"crmLevelSwitch":0,"followedFlag":false,"idStr":"3583575014073252","authorIdStr":"3583575014073252"},"themes":[],"htmlText":"nnnnn","listText":"nnnnn","text":"nnnnn","images":[],"top":1,"highlighted":1,"essential":1,"paper":1,"likeSize":0,"commentSize":0,"repostSize":0,"link":"https://ttm.financial/post/128111270","repostId":"1171242956","repostType":4,"repost":{"id":"1171242956","kind":"news","weMediaInfo":{"introduction":"为用户提供金融资讯、行情、数据，旨在帮助投资者理解世界，做投资决策。","home_visible":1,"media_name":"老虎资讯综合","id":"102","head_image":"https://static.tigerbbs.com/8274c5b9d4c2852bfb1c4d6ce16c68ba"},"pubTimestamp":1624497777,"share":"https://ttm.financial/m/news/1171242956?lang=en_US&edition=fundamental","pubTime":"2021-06-24 09:22","market":"hk","language":"zh","title":"Opening: Hang Seng Index opened 0.17% higher, New Oriental rose more than 5%","url":"https://stock-news.laohu8.com/highlight/detail?id=1171242956","media":"老虎资讯综合","summary":"6月24日讯，港股三大指数高开，恒指涨0.17%报28865点，国指涨0.14%报10688点，恒生科技指数涨0.32%报8045点。盘面上，光伏股强势，福莱特玻璃高开5%，信义玻璃、信义光能等均上涨","content":"<p>On June 24, the three major Hong Kong stock indexes opened higher. The Hang Seng Index rose 0.17% to 28,865 points, the State Index rose 0.14% to 10,688 points, and the Hang Seng Technology Index rose 0.32% to 8,045 points.<img src=\"https://static.tigerbbs.com/bf14c488539ead32bc20f4d3e1881261\" tg-width=\"840\" tg-height=\"470\">On the disk, photovoltaic stocks are strong,<a href=\"https://laohu8.com/S/06865\">Follett Glass</a>Opened 5% higher,<a href=\"https://laohu8.com/S/00868\">Xinyi Glass</a>、<a href=\"https://laohu8.com/S/00968\">Xinyi Solar</a>Etc. all rose; The education and pharmaceutical sectors were among the top gainers, with New Oriental rising more than 5%.<a href=\"https://laohu8.com/S/TSLA\">Tesla</a>Concept stocks, beer stocks, property management stocks, and automobile stocks generally rose.<a href=\"https://laohu8.com/S/601598\">Sinotrans</a>、<a href=\"https://laohu8.com/S/01308\">SITC International</a>All opened higher; Large technology stocks generally rose,<a href=\"https://laohu8.com/S/BABA\">Alibaba</a>Up more than 1%,<a href=\"https://laohu8.com/S/BIDU\">Baidu</a>, Meituan,<a href=\"https://laohu8.com/S/00700\">Tencent</a>Small rise; Sporting goods stocks were mixed, with Anta's open low exceeding 1%, hitting a record high yesterday; Aviation stocks and gambling stocks fell significantly.</p><p><a href=\"https://laohu8.com/S/01478\">Qiu Ti Technology</a>Up nearly 3%, the spin-off of Kunshan Qiutii Microelectronics submitted a listing application to the Growth Enterprise Market of Shenzhen Stock Exchange.</p>","collect":0,"html":"<!DOCTYPE html>\n<html>\n<head>\n<meta http-equiv=\"Content-Type\" content=\"text/html; charset=utf-8\" />\n<meta name=\"viewport\" content=\"width=device-width,initial-scale=1.0,minimum-scale=1.0,maximum-scale=1.0,user-scalable=no\"/>\n<meta name=\"format-detection\" content=\"telephone=no,email=no,address=no\" />\n<title>Opening: Hang Seng Index opened 0.17% higher, New Oriental rose more than 5%</title>\n<style type=\"text/css\">\na,abbr,acronym,address,applet,article,aside,audio,b,big,blockquote,body,canvas,caption,center,cite,code,dd,del,details,dfn,div,dl,dt,\nem,embed,fieldset,figcaption,figure,footer,form,h1,h2,h3,h4,h5,h6,header,hgroup,html,i,iframe,img,ins,kbd,label,legend,li,mark,menu,nav,\nobject,ol,output,p,pre,q,ruby,s,samp,section,small,span,strike,strong,sub,summary,sup,table,tbody,td,tfoot,th,thead,time,tr,tt,u,ul,var,video{ font:inherit;margin:0;padding:0;vertical-align:baseline;border:0 }\nbody{ font-size:16px; line-height:1.5; color:#999; background:transparent; }\n.wrapper{ overflow:hidden;word-break:break-all;padding:10px; }\nh1,h2{ font-weight:normal; line-height:1.35; margin-bottom:.6em; }\nh3,h4,h5,h6{ line-height:1.35; margin-bottom:1em; }\nh1{ font-size:24px; }\nh2{ font-size:20px; }\nh3{ font-size:18px; }\nh4{ font-size:16px; }\nh5{ font-size:14px; }\nh6{ font-size:12px; }\np,ul,ol,blockquote,dl,table{ margin:1.2em 0; }\nul,ol{ margin-left:2em; }\nul{ list-style:disc; }\nol{ list-style:decimal; }\nli,li p{ margin:10px 0;}\nimg{ max-width:100%;display:block;margin:0 auto 1em; }\nblockquote{ color:#B5B2B1; border-left:3px solid #aaa; padding:1em; }\nstrong,b{font-weight:bold;}\nem,i{font-style:italic;}\ntable{ width:100%;border-collapse:collapse;border-spacing:1px;margin:1em 0;font-size:.9em; }\nth,td{ padding:5px;text-align:left;border:1px solid #aaa; }\nth{ font-weight:bold;background:#5d5d5d; }\n.symbol-link{font-weight:bold;}\n/* header{ border-bottom:1px solid #494756; } */\n.title{ margin:0 0 8px;line-height:1.3;color:#ddd; }\n.meta {color:#5e5c6d;font-size:13px;margin:0 0 .5em; }\na{text-decoration:none; color:#2a4b87;}\n.meta .head { display: inline-block; overflow: hidden}\n.head .h-thumb { width: 30px; height: 30px; margin: 0; padding: 0; border-radius: 50%; float: left;}\n.head .h-content { margin: 0; padding: 0 0 0 9px; float: left;}\n.head .h-name {font-size: 13px; color: #eee; margin: 0;}\n.head .h-time {font-size: 12.5px; color: #7E829C; margin: 0;}\n.small {font-size: 12.5px; display: inline-block; transform: scale(0.9); -webkit-transform: scale(0.9); transform-origin: left; -webkit-transform-origin: left;}\n.smaller {font-size: 12.5px; display: inline-block; transform: scale(0.8); -webkit-transform: scale(0.8); transform-origin: left; -webkit-transform-origin: left;}\n.bt-text {font-size: 12px;margin: 1.5em 0 0 0}\n.bt-text p {margin: 0}\n</style>\n</head>\n<body>\n<div class=\"wrapper\">\n<header>\n<h2 class=\"title\">\nOpening: Hang Seng Index opened 0.17% higher, New Oriental rose more than 5%\n</h2>\n<h4 class=\"meta\">\n<a class=\"head\" href=\"https://laohu8.com/wemedia/102\">\n\n<div class=\"h-thumb\" style=\"background-image:url(https://static.tigerbbs.com/8274c5b9d4c2852bfb1c4d6ce16c68ba);background-size:cover;\"></div>\n\n<div class=\"h-content\">\n<p class=\"h-name\">老虎资讯综合 </p>\n<p class=\"h-time smaller\">2021-06-24 09:22</p>\n</div>\n</a>\n</h4>\n</header>\n<article>\n<p>On June 24, the three major Hong Kong stock indexes opened higher. The Hang Seng Index rose 0.17% to 28,865 points, the State Index rose 0.14% to 10,688 points, and the Hang Seng Technology Index rose 0.32% to 8,045 points.<img src=\"https://static.tigerbbs.com/bf14c488539ead32bc20f4d3e1881261\" tg-width=\"840\" tg-height=\"470\">On the disk, photovoltaic stocks are strong,<a href=\"https://laohu8.com/S/06865\">Follett Glass</a>Opened 5% higher,<a href=\"https://laohu8.com/S/00868\">Xinyi Glass</a>、<a href=\"https://laohu8.com/S/00968\">Xinyi Solar</a>Etc. all rose; The education and pharmaceutical sectors were among the top gainers, with New Oriental rising more than 5%.<a href=\"https://laohu8.com/S/TSLA\">Tesla</a>Concept stocks, beer stocks, property management stocks, and automobile stocks generally rose.<a href=\"https://laohu8.com/S/601598\">Sinotrans</a>、<a href=\"https://laohu8.com/S/01308\">SITC International</a>All opened higher; Large technology stocks generally rose,<a href=\"https://laohu8.com/S/BABA\">Alibaba</a>Up more than 1%,<a href=\"https://laohu8.com/S/BIDU\">Baidu</a>, Meituan,<a href=\"https://laohu8.com/S/00700\">Tencent</a>Small rise; Sporting goods stocks were mixed, with Anta's open low exceeding 1%, hitting a record high yesterday; Aviation stocks and gambling stocks fell significantly.</p><p><a href=\"https://laohu8.com/S/01478\">Qiu Ti Technology</a>Up nearly 3%, the spin-off of Kunshan Qiutii Microelectronics submitted a listing application to the Growth Enterprise Market of Shenzhen Stock Exchange.</p>\n</article>\n</div>\n</body>\n</html>\n","type":0,"thumbnail":"https://static.tigerbbs.com/5b3b5e72649367d0aafd9bcbbca9bcd1","relate_stocks":{"159938":"医药","513600":"恒生指数ETF","02833":"恒指ETF","09939":"开拓药业-B","HSI":"恒生指数"},"is_english":false,"share_image_url":"https://static.laohu8.com/e9f99090a1c2ed51c021029395664489","article_id":"1171242956","content_text":"6月24日讯，港股三大指数高开，恒指涨0.17%报28865点，国指涨0.14%报10688点，恒生科技指数涨0.32%报8045点。盘面上，光伏股强势，福莱特玻璃高开5%，信义玻璃、信义光能等均上涨；教育、医药板块涨幅居前，新东方涨超5%，特斯拉概念股、啤酒股、物管股、汽车股普遍上扬，中国外运、海丰国际等皆高开；大型科技股普涨，阿里巴巴涨超1%，百度、美团、腾讯小幅上涨；体育用品股涨跌不一，安踏低开逾1%，昨日曾创历史新高；航空股、濠赌股走低明显。\n丘钛科技涨近3%，分拆昆山丘钛微电子向深交所创业板提交上市申请。","news_type":1,"symbols_score_info":{"159938":0.9,"513600":0.9,"HHImain":0.9,"MCHmain":0.9,"02833":0.9,"09939":0.9,"HSI":0.9,"MHImain":0.9,"HSImain":0.9}},"isVote":1,"tweetType":1,"viewCount":2603,"authorTweetTopStatus":1,"verified":2,"comments":[],"imageCount":0,"langContent":"EN","totalScore":0},{"id":192905670,"gmtCreate":1621134464990,"gmtModify":1704353196901,"author":{"id":"3583575014073252","authorId":"3583575014073252","name":"恩嗯","avatar":"https://static.tigerbbs.com/a6e63e165d75d83d76b2bddad2635952","crmLevel":2,"crmLevelSwitch":0,"followedFlag":false,"idStr":"3583575014073252","authorIdStr":"3583575014073252"},"themes":[],"htmlText":"666666","listText":"666666","text":"666666","images":[],"top":1,"highlighted":1,"essential":1,"paper":1,"likeSize":0,"commentSize":0,"repostSize":0,"link":"https://ttm.financial/post/192905670","repostId":"1144988792","repostType":4,"repost":{"id":"1144988792","kind":"news","pubTimestamp":1621047045,"share":"https://ttm.financial/m/news/1144988792?lang=en_US&edition=fundamental","pubTime":"2021-05-15 10:50","market":"sh","language":"zh","title":"Zhou Chengjian, Chairman of Metersbonwe: I once forgot that I was a \"tailor\"","url":"https://stock-news.laohu8.com/highlight/detail?id=1144988792","media":"商业江湖","summary":"2008年美特斯邦威在深交所挂牌上市，在上市仪式上，美邦创始人周成建向深交所赠送了一台镀金小缝纫机，他说：“我最早是一个村庄的裁缝，现在有幸成为中国的裁缝，希望以后还能成为全球的裁缝。”\n此后，“中国","content":"<p>In 2008, Metersbonwe was listed on the Shenzhen Stock Exchange. At the listing ceremony, Zhou Chengjian, founder of Smith Barney, presented a small gold-plated sewing machine to the Shenzhen Stock Exchange. He said, \"I was a tailor in a village at the beginning, and now I am lucky enough to be a tailor in China. I hope I can become a tailor in the world in the future.\"</p><p>Since then, \"Chinese tailor\" has become Zhou Chengjian's most important label, and he has repeated this statement on many occasions.</p><p>But 13 years later, Zhou Chengjian began to reflect on his \"inconsistency between words and deeds\".</p><p>On January 28, 2021, sitting in the office of Smith Barney headquarters in Kangqiao, Shanghai, Zhou Chengjian told \"Business Jianghu\", \"On the surface, I have always emphasized that I am a 'Chinese tailor', but in fact, in the past few years, I have been out of the clothing circle and rarely understand the changes in the industry. It is this'out-of-the-circle 'behavior that makes Smith Barney in today's dilemma.\"</p><p>Ten years ago, Smith Barney had beautiful financial report data.</p><p>In 2008, Metersbonwe's net profit reached 588 million yuan, and they reached their peak in 2011. In that year, Metersbonwe opened more than 5,000 chain stores across the country, achieving revenue of 9.945 billion yuan and net profit of 1.206 billion yuan.</p><p>\"At that time, we were the clothing company with the strongest supply chain capabilities in China. Our sell-out rate at the end of the quarter could reach 95-97%, and even the mid-season replenishment order could reach about 45%. Now our sell-out rate at the end of the quarter is only 50-60%.\" Zhou Chengjian said.</p><p>Looking back, 2008 was the turning point of Zhou Chengjian's \"tailoring career\". Before that, he \"devoted all his energy to the clothing circle, often going to Milan and Paris to exchange clothing designs with local designers\". After listing, he \"changed from a farmer to the boss of a listed company, and there were more opportunities to mix in different circles. The whole person was too confident and deviated.\"</p><p>\"Some people will never forget themselves no matter how they mix in the circle, but I mix in and forget my last name.\"</p><p>\"I take'tailor'as my slogan every day, but in essence I forget about tailor. My behavior is not based on tailor, which causes today's trouble. Now I emphasize'awakening and returning'in the company, that is, I hope to start from me and awaken my obsession with'making clothes'and return to the clothing circle.\"</p><p>From starting a business recklessly, to losing himself, and then to waking up and returning, Zhou Chengjian reviewed his entrepreneurial history to Business Jianghu in an interview of more than an hour, and said that now he knows his last name.</p><p>\"I'm the man named 'Tailor',\" he said.</p><p><b>01</b></p><p><b>The Great Leap Forward of \"Half Sleeve\"</b></p><p>At first, Zhou Chengjian was indeed a tailor.</p><p>When he was 14 years old, he learned to make clothes with his relatives, and later went to Wenzhou to do clothing processing, mainly supplying wholesalers in Miaoguo Temple.</p><p>\"Generally, orders are taken in the afternoon and delivered at noon the next day, and the longest time will not exceed 72 hours, because customers won't wait so long.\" Zhou Chengjian said that at that time, he was so busy that he took jobs during the day and cut at night. When he was sleepy, he put a quilt on the clipping board to sleep.</p><p>\"At that time, there was a popular joke in our circle, 'Be the boss during the day and sleep on the floor at night.'\" He said.</p><p>Busy mistakes. One day, when cutting, Zhou Chengjian drew the wrong size and cut a stack of cloth by more than ten centimeters, resulting in the sleeves of these suits being shorter. Then he was \"scolded by the client\", and the other party asked him to compensate more than 100,000 yuan.</p><p>Helpless next week, Chengjian went to the market to buy another kind of fabric to splice the sleeves. In order to cover up his mistake, he changed the straight sleeves of the suit into color-matching jacket sleeves, and then asked the customer to \"try to sell them, and sell them if you can. If you can't sell them, I will pay for the loss myself.\"</p><p>Unexpectedly, this kind of splicing suit was sought after by the market, and it was quickly snapped up, and even many people came to \"chase the order\".</p><p>In this way, the \"spliced version of casual suit\" was born and became a new clothing category.</p><p>\"I used to think that I was just helping others make clothes, but after this incident, I realized that I can still create clothes. Since then, I have started to pay attention to making clothes. Others buy a clothes and cut it according to the cutting, but I will change some details of the clothes, such as changing sleeves or pockets, so that the clothes will look different and the business will be better than others.\" Zhou Chengjian said that the \"half-sleeve incident\" is a breakthrough point in his career.</p><p>After this battle, Zhou Chengjian also made a name for himself. Later, he opened his own clothing booth in Miaoguo Temple, forming a business model of \"front shop and back factory\". He took orders during the day and went back to the factory for cutting and processing at night. Under this mode, purchasing, design, sewing, sales and other links are all done by himself. Later, he opened a garment factory with more than 500 people in Wenzhou and became the most experienced practitioner in this industry.</p><p>A few years later, Zhou Chengjian, who was already the chairman of Metersbonwe, visited partner companies. When those factory owners boasted to him about their company's \"strong production capacity\", Zhou Chengjian said with a smile, \"At least 30% of the employees in your workshop are novices, and I can know their proficiency by listening to the sound of them stepping on sewing machines.\"</p><p>At that time, he was indeed an authentic \"Wenzhou tailor\".</p><p><b>02</b></p><p><b>Leather bag company and net fishing</b></p><p>In April, 1995, Zhou Chengjian opened the first Metersbonwe store in Wenzhou. In order to attract customers, he paved all Wuma Street in Wenzhou with a red carpet and went directly to Meibang stores.</p><p>The name of Metersbonwe is said to come from ancient Chinese, which means \"beauty is special here, and it promotes the prestige of our country\".</p><p>\"I didn't leave the wholesale market because I had done well in the wholesale market, but I didn't think it was a long-term solution.\" Zhou Chengjian said that the clothing market in Wenzhou was \"irregular\" at that time. There was no fixed retail price for clothing, and everyone was bargaining. He felt that this model needed to be changed.</p><p>\"I wanted to be a brand with a clear price tag and no bargaining.\" So Metersbonwe was born.</p><p>However, Smith Barney's innovation in clothing retail doesn't stop there. Because of the lack of funds in the early stage, Zhou Chengjian figured out a set of \"money-saving but fast\" development model-he outsourced the heaviest part of traditional clothing enterprises-manufacturing and production, and he was only responsible for design and brand marketing. At the same time, he attracted franchisees on a large scale, which on the one hand reduced the burden of enterprises and quickly seized the market.</p><p>\"I want to make all-category clothing, but my own factory only made woven jackets at that time, and the factory was too busy, so I could only find the all-category supply chain in the society to support it. At the same time, I didn't want to spend so much money on opening a store, so I invited customers who used to do wholesale in the wholesale market to become my franchisees.\" Zhou Chengjian said that at that time, he often went to Guangdong to find cooperative suppliers to broaden the category.</p><p>\"Simply put, I am equivalent to outsourcing the production workshop and store, and apart from these two links, everything else is our own, such as branding, plate making, design and other links.\" Zhou Chengjian said that this model caused many questions in the early days of its establishment.</p><p>\"Either produce it yourself, or produce it yourself and then open a specialty store to sell it yourself. At that time, this model was called the real economy, so as soon as Smith Barney appeared, some people questioned me for'not doing my job properly '.\"</p><p>Zhou Chengjian recalled that around 1996, about one year after the establishment of Smith Barney, a colleague in the wholesale market accompanied the China Apparel Association to Smith Barney for research. After the visit, he said to Zhou Chengjian, \"If your company is still alive one year later, I will cut off my head and give it to you.\"</p><p>There is no doubt that every innovation is mixed with huge doubts.</p><p>Looking back today, Smith Barney created a very excellent business model at that time-like large clothing brands such as Nike and Adidas, they used an asset-light model to quickly mobilize social forces, and then incited a huge market cake.</p><p>\"I didn't do it after I wanted to understand the theory, but I verified the correctness of this model through these theories after I finished it. Looking back, I was not the first to adopt this model in the world. Many brands in Europe and America are global OEM. This model has already existed, but I didn't know it at that time.\" Zhou Chengjian said that in the whole world, he was not an innovator, but in Zhejiang at that time, he was the \"first person\".</p><p>Around 1998, Zhang Dejiang, then secretary of Zhejiang Provincial Party Committee, went to Wenzhou for investigation. After listening to Zhou Chengjian's speech, Secretary Zhang said, \"Xiao Zhou, you have a good model. You are borrowing chickens to lay eggs and fishing by nets.\"</p><p>Subsequently, the secretary approved a long paragraph in the materials of Smith Barney, hoping that the national reporter stations in Zhejiang Province would vigorously publicize it, so that everyone could study Smith Barney and learn the Smith Barney model.</p><p>Overnight, Zhou Chengcheng became the representative of \"fishing by net\".</p><p>After a brief controversy, the \"asset-light\" model soon showed its advantages.</p><p>From its establishment in 1995 to its listing in 2008, in just 13 years, Smith Barney created a myth of rapid rise.</p><p>\"When it went public, Smith Barney had more than 5 billion retail sales and nearly 1,000 stores, surpassing many companies established earlier than us. Compared with various data such as scale, influence, and professional ability, we are the first in the industry, or even the second and third places may only add up to 2/3 of ours.\"</p><p>Zhou Chengjian said that to this day, he feels that this model has no obvious shortcomings, and \"Smith Barney's dilemma is that he didn't adhere to the key points in this model, such as product development and supply chain management.\" Behind this is the consequence of his own \"out of the circle\".</p><p><b>03</b></p><p><b>\"Change and unchanged\" after leaving the circle</b></p><p>A bad result of \"out of the circle\" is the increase of \"inventory\".</p><p>\"Clothing resources should be in the workshop, on the production line instead of in the warehouse. High inventory is an abnormal phenomenon. On the one hand, it occupies the warehouse area, increases circulation costs, financial costs, and trend lagging costs, etc.\" Zhou Chengjian said that the inventory backlog is closely related to his original \"out-of-circle\" behavior.</p><p>Specifically, in the past ten years, Smith Barney has made some mistakes in supply chain management and channel expansion.</p><p>\"Why was our sell-out rate of 97% at the end of the quarter before 2008? This is actually inseparable from the product research and development, technology landing and commodity supply chain capabilities behind it.\" Zhou Chengjian said that two wrong decisions in the supply chain indirectly led to the decrease in the sell-out rate.</p><p>At the beginning of its establishment, Smith Barney outsourced \"workshops and stores\", while its brand and design capabilities were in its own hands. They had their own design and R&D team, which could develop the most fashionable clothing according to market needs. However, after listing, a vice president made a suggestion to Zhou Chengjian to \"socialize the design and technical links\".</p><p>Simply put, both ends of the design process are outsourced.</p><p>\"The designer draws a draft, draws it and hands it over to the production factory for trial production. It takes about half a month or a month to make the clothes. When it comes back, we will review and see if it is right.\" Zhou Chengjian said that after the company went public, he mixed up in other circles and didn't pay so much attention to the clothing circle, which made him make some wrong judgments.</p><p>\"At that time, the vice president suggested that this kind of outsourcing could save tens of millions of costs. After listening to it, I felt reasonable, so I acquiesced in this change.\"</p><p>Another change in the supply chain also appeared at this time.</p><p>\"Another vice president suggested that all the procurement of noodles and accessories should be socialized.\" Prior to this, Smith Barney's supply chain was relatively closed, and they would choose some long-term cooperative suppliers to purchase. After socialization, they became the purchase of raw materials for the whole society.</p><p>\"After studying at China Europe Business School, the vice president made a related academic paper. After studying, he came to me and told me about socializing the supply chain, saying that this would save a lot of costs.\" Zhou Chengjian said that although these measures were all suggestions made by the vice president, the problem still lies with himself. \"Because I am the authorizer, the manager and the supporter.\"</p><p>These measures have indeed helped Smith Barney save costs in the short term, but on the other hand, they also mean that Smith Barney has lost its ability to respond quickly in the supply chain and its ability to control product quality.</p><p>\"After the design is outsourced, a lot of time cost is increased. The designer's design draft and the manufacturer's finished product are mailed back and forth for modification. Often, it takes a lot of time for clothes in a season to achieve the ideal sense of design and quality.\" Zhou Chengjian said that at that time, he didn't care about these details when he was \"out of the circle\", which led them to \"toss back and forth\" and reduced the design and production efficiency.</p><p>In terms of channels, Smith Barney sticks to some outdated standards.</p><p>\"At that time, the person in charge of the channel repeatedly suggested that I make changes to retail operation and channel planning, but I didn't listen to his advice.\" Zhou Chengjian said that the person in charge repeatedly stressed to him that the stores of Metersbonwe and ME&CITY should be adjusted. For example, ME&CITY should not open a large store, but should go to the shopping center business district to open a moderate area store. At the same time, Smith Barney stores should not be based on the Big Mac store on Nanjing Road, Shanghai, and other stores should be found to make standard copies.</p><p>And he didn't adopt these suggestions.</p><p>\"Looking back, the biggest change in the market in the past decade is the change of channels and retail methods. ME&CITY is positioned to serve the new middle class, and the target group is urban white-collar workers. In the past decade, the probability of urban white-collar workers going to traditional commercial streets has decreased. This group of people prefer to go shopping in shopping malls, so ME&CITY should set up stores in shopping malls such as Vientiane CITY, Longhu Tiandi and Kerry Center instead of staying in Huaihai Road or Nanjing Road. Correspondingly, Smith Barney stores can set up stores in traditional business districts, but the flagship store on Nanjing East Road should not be used as the standard. This store is too large and can be used as a flagship store, but it cannot be promoted nationwide. \" Zhou Chengjian said that during the \"out-of-the-circle\" period, because he didn't know enough about the market conditions, he \"didn't listen to what should be heard, but listened to everything that shouldn't be heard.\"</p><p>Zhou Chengjian reflected on the reasons for his two wrong decisions: \"Product R&D and supply chain belong to back-office management. Once the back-office doesn't contact, it will forget what is right and what is wrong, so when I receive these suggestions, I feel that I can't judge what is right or wrong, and then choose to listen to their suggestions; However, retail and channels belong to the front desk. I see a lot and have a lot of contact with the front desk every day. Even if I leave the circle, I still feel that I am in this situation, so I fall into the experience trap.</p><p>Zhou Chengjian admitted that after leaving the circle at that time, he \"broke away from the analysis in the industry, and just listened to suggestions from an emotional perspective.\" And this eventually led to more detours for Smith Barney.</p><p><b>04</b></p><p><b>Reflections on \"Banggou\" and \"Youfaner\" APP</b></p><p>Of course, \"leaving the circle\" is not all a bad thing. From another perspective, Zhou Chengjian, who stands in a higher circle, also sees greater opportunities and benefits from the exchange of information \"outside the circle\". He made two major attempts in the Internet industry in 2010 and 2014.</p><p>In 2010, when Smith Barney was at its peak, Zhou Chengjian launched Smith Barney's own e-commerce platform \"Bangou.com\". Through this e-commerce platform, consumers can scan codes for consumption in physical stores, and can also realize many functions such as online shopping and offline returns.</p><p>In the first year of its launch, the turnover of Smith Barney's single brand on Banggou Online was 300 million, which is a very good figure, but unfortunately, Banggou Online only lasted for about one year before it ended sadly.</p><p>Another more significant attempt by Zhou Chengjian appeared four years later. In 2014, Metersbonwe won the overall title of Qipa Shuo with 50 million yuan; In April of the following year, the \"Youfan\" APP was launched; Subsequently, the \"Youfan\" APP successively won the title of the second and third seasons of \"Qipa Shuo\".</p><p>Youfan is an experience platform focusing on \"fashion matching\". Users can communicate with professional stylists at zero distance through this APP, choose their own style from a large number of personalized brands, get customized exclusive suggestions, and place orders in real time for sharing and interaction.</p><p>From today's point of view, Youfan is a \"social e-commerce\" APP. He has all the attributes of social e-commerce, and thanks to the drainage of Qipa Shuo, Youfan ushered in a \"good start\"-the first night of its launch, it attracted 500,000 users, and these people uploaded 100,000 selfies.</p><p>However, this APP failed to go far in the market. In August 2017, the \"Youfan\" APP announced its offline.</p><p>Zhou Chengjian said that both Banggou and Youfan have actually seized the window period, which can be verified from Vipshop and Xiaohongshu, which rose at the same time. However, Banggou and Youfan have failed to go far. The key reason is that \"I don't understand it at all.\"</p><p>\"Banggou and Youfan are both positioned in our own channels, but failed to expand to the platform attribute. We always want to make them a new channel of Smith Barney, but never think of making them a mass platform that can cover more brands. This is the result of laymen's blind investment without understanding this matter.\" Zhou Chengjian metaphorically said that no matter Nanjing East Road, Tmall and Suning are actually social channels. \"The business district needs groups, this is the business district. And I positioned Banggou and Youfan as Smith Barney's own channel, just like opening a Metersbonwe store in Smith Barney.</p><p>He said that the experience given to himself by this incident is that \"decisions made from outside the circle should be done in ways outside the circle, and you can't follow the methods inside the circle, otherwise you will definitely fail.\"</p><p><b>05</b></p><p><b>regression</b></p><p>After nearly ten years of twists and turns, Zhou Chengjian decided to return to the status of \"tailor\".</p><p>\"There is no way out. The company is doing so badly. Unless I give up, I have to think about doing him well again.\" Since 2018, Zhou Chengjian began to gradually return, and the first thing he did after his return was to \"correct mistakes\".</p><p>He reorganized Smith Barney's current channels and supply chain, and is trying to make up for the original \"wrong decision.\"</p><p>\"Our key problem now is resource dislocation. I asked the team to rethink how to make and sell clothes? For example, how to sell clothes? How to match the current resources to the corresponding channels.\"</p><p>Subsequently, Smith Barney conducted a global channel classification analysis on online and offline.</p><p>\"Whether it's the traditional online JD.COM, Tmall or the newly emerging social e-commerce platform, as well as offline business districts, shopping malls, etc., we hope to analyze and plan these global channels to find out who we want to sell to? How to sell the answer, sort out these questions, and then do product planning and supply chain support based on this precise market.\"</p><p>In 2015, in order to break the circle, Smith Barney launched the \"five major styles\", namely casual NEWear, trendy HYSTYL, urban light business Nōvachic, street fashion MTEE, and forest ASELF. Smith Barney hopes that these diverse styles can satisfy more consumers.</p><p>\"This strategy is right, but now from the perspective of simplification, they can't meet the market demand individually. We need to go deep into these styles and gradually clarify their consumer groups and consumption regions. For example, the trend system sells well in the Northeast, but we dominate resources on average across the country, which is'resource dislocation '.\"</p><p>Currently, Zhou Chengjian is accurately matching the five styles with channels and regional markets. \"Based on market demand and combined with the company's capabilities, I will focus on a certain style first, and then gradually implement it, breaking through one by one.\"</p><p>In addition to accurate matching of channels, supply chain management has also become the focus of Smith Barney's self-help.</p><p>They took back the \"technology research and development\" link that was blindly outsourced at the beginning, reorganized the supply chain, and realized a \"closed-loop path from trends to clothes.\"</p><p>\"We now have our own design team and sample clothing factory. The design and production of sample clothing are all completed internally, which greatly improves the efficiency and increases the controllability of clothing design and quality. We have just finished the research and development of ME&CITY in the autumn of 2021, and the company is very satisfied with this season's products.\"</p><p>In terms of channels, Zhou Chengjian finally changed the standards he had previously insisted on, reorganized the channel standards, and readjusted them from \"placement\" to area.</p><p>\"In addition, we also sort out the accurate matching products of different channels, and the whole operation work is more refined, standardized and replicable, so that franchisees also have confidence.\"</p><p>\"Through the sorting out in the second half of last year, many partners returned to join and cooperate a few years ago. The number of our joins in the first quarter of this year (2021) has reached the scale of last year. In the first quarter, it has been determined that the area of developed stores has been larger than that of last year. The development area of one year.\"</p><p>\"I hope Smith Barney can regain its core competitiveness and let the whole company return to the business of making and selling clothes. Now I think we have a very clear strategy and path, but we haven't fully achieved this core advantage, and now we have just embarked on the journey back.\"</p><p>Zhou Chengjian has indeed taken an \"unusual path\" from entering Wenzhou alone as a teenager, becoming the richest man in the clothing industry when he went public, and then returning to the original intention of \"tailoring\" today.</p><p>\"It is very difficult for people to know themselves, and it is even more difficult to manage themselves. Through repeated tossing, we always grow up and mature, and we will always know ourselves better than before. I have tossed and experienced it. If there is still a chance to return, this is a blessing in itself... Today, if people can still label me a 'tailor', I will be satisfied.\" Zhou Chengjian said with a teacup backed by a huge glass window.</p>","source":"lsy1621046853013","collect":0,"html":"<!DOCTYPE html>\n<html>\n<head>\n<meta http-equiv=\"Content-Type\" content=\"text/html; charset=utf-8\" />\n<meta name=\"viewport\" content=\"width=device-width,initial-scale=1.0,minimum-scale=1.0,maximum-scale=1.0,user-scalable=no\"/>\n<meta name=\"format-detection\" content=\"telephone=no,email=no,address=no\" />\n<title>Zhou Chengjian, Chairman of Metersbonwe: I once forgot that I was a \"tailor\"</title>\n<style type=\"text/css\">\na,abbr,acronym,address,applet,article,aside,audio,b,big,blockquote,body,canvas,caption,center,cite,code,dd,del,details,dfn,div,dl,dt,\nem,embed,fieldset,figcaption,figure,footer,form,h1,h2,h3,h4,h5,h6,header,hgroup,html,i,iframe,img,ins,kbd,label,legend,li,mark,menu,nav,\nobject,ol,output,p,pre,q,ruby,s,samp,section,small,span,strike,strong,sub,summary,sup,table,tbody,td,tfoot,th,thead,time,tr,tt,u,ul,var,video{ font:inherit;margin:0;padding:0;vertical-align:baseline;border:0 }\nbody{ font-size:16px; line-height:1.5; color:#999; background:transparent; }\n.wrapper{ overflow:hidden;word-break:break-all;padding:10px; }\nh1,h2{ font-weight:normal; line-height:1.35; margin-bottom:.6em; }\nh3,h4,h5,h6{ line-height:1.35; margin-bottom:1em; }\nh1{ font-size:24px; }\nh2{ font-size:20px; }\nh3{ font-size:18px; }\nh4{ font-size:16px; }\nh5{ font-size:14px; }\nh6{ font-size:12px; }\np,ul,ol,blockquote,dl,table{ margin:1.2em 0; }\nul,ol{ margin-left:2em; }\nul{ list-style:disc; }\nol{ list-style:decimal; }\nli,li p{ margin:10px 0;}\nimg{ max-width:100%;display:block;margin:0 auto 1em; }\nblockquote{ color:#B5B2B1; border-left:3px solid #aaa; padding:1em; }\nstrong,b{font-weight:bold;}\nem,i{font-style:italic;}\ntable{ width:100%;border-collapse:collapse;border-spacing:1px;margin:1em 0;font-size:.9em; }\nth,td{ padding:5px;text-align:left;border:1px solid #aaa; }\nth{ font-weight:bold;background:#5d5d5d; }\n.symbol-link{font-weight:bold;}\n/* header{ border-bottom:1px solid #494756; } */\n.title{ margin:0 0 8px;line-height:1.3;color:#ddd; }\n.meta {color:#5e5c6d;font-size:13px;margin:0 0 .5em; }\na{text-decoration:none; color:#2a4b87;}\n.meta .head { display: inline-block; overflow: hidden}\n.head .h-thumb { width: 30px; height: 30px; margin: 0; padding: 0; border-radius: 50%; float: left;}\n.head .h-content { margin: 0; padding: 0 0 0 9px; float: left;}\n.head .h-name {font-size: 13px; color: #eee; margin: 0;}\n.head .h-time {font-size: 12.5px; color: #7E829C; margin: 0;}\n.small {font-size: 12.5px; display: inline-block; transform: scale(0.9); -webkit-transform: scale(0.9); transform-origin: left; -webkit-transform-origin: left;}\n.smaller {font-size: 12.5px; display: inline-block; transform: scale(0.8); -webkit-transform: scale(0.8); transform-origin: left; -webkit-transform-origin: left;}\n.bt-text {font-size: 12px;margin: 1.5em 0 0 0}\n.bt-text p {margin: 0}\n</style>\n</head>\n<body>\n<div class=\"wrapper\">\n<header>\n<h2 class=\"title\">\nZhou Chengjian, Chairman of Metersbonwe: I once forgot that I was a \"tailor\"\n</h2>\n<h4 class=\"meta\">\n<p class=\"head\">\n<strong class=\"h-name small\">商业江湖</strong><span class=\"h-time small\">2021-05-15 10:50</span>\n</p>\n</h4>\n</header>\n<article>\n<p>In 2008, Metersbonwe was listed on the Shenzhen Stock Exchange. At the listing ceremony, Zhou Chengjian, founder of Smith Barney, presented a small gold-plated sewing machine to the Shenzhen Stock Exchange. He said, \"I was a tailor in a village at the beginning, and now I am lucky enough to be a tailor in China. I hope I can become a tailor in the world in the future.\"</p><p>Since then, \"Chinese tailor\" has become Zhou Chengjian's most important label, and he has repeated this statement on many occasions.</p><p>But 13 years later, Zhou Chengjian began to reflect on his \"inconsistency between words and deeds\".</p><p>On January 28, 2021, sitting in the office of Smith Barney headquarters in Kangqiao, Shanghai, Zhou Chengjian told \"Business Jianghu\", \"On the surface, I have always emphasized that I am a 'Chinese tailor', but in fact, in the past few years, I have been out of the clothing circle and rarely understand the changes in the industry. It is this'out-of-the-circle 'behavior that makes Smith Barney in today's dilemma.\"</p><p>Ten years ago, Smith Barney had beautiful financial report data.</p><p>In 2008, Metersbonwe's net profit reached 588 million yuan, and they reached their peak in 2011. In that year, Metersbonwe opened more than 5,000 chain stores across the country, achieving revenue of 9.945 billion yuan and net profit of 1.206 billion yuan.</p><p>\"At that time, we were the clothing company with the strongest supply chain capabilities in China. Our sell-out rate at the end of the quarter could reach 95-97%, and even the mid-season replenishment order could reach about 45%. Now our sell-out rate at the end of the quarter is only 50-60%.\" Zhou Chengjian said.</p><p>Looking back, 2008 was the turning point of Zhou Chengjian's \"tailoring career\". Before that, he \"devoted all his energy to the clothing circle, often going to Milan and Paris to exchange clothing designs with local designers\". After listing, he \"changed from a farmer to the boss of a listed company, and there were more opportunities to mix in different circles. The whole person was too confident and deviated.\"</p><p>\"Some people will never forget themselves no matter how they mix in the circle, but I mix in and forget my last name.\"</p><p>\"I take'tailor'as my slogan every day, but in essence I forget about tailor. My behavior is not based on tailor, which causes today's trouble. Now I emphasize'awakening and returning'in the company, that is, I hope to start from me and awaken my obsession with'making clothes'and return to the clothing circle.\"</p><p>From starting a business recklessly, to losing himself, and then to waking up and returning, Zhou Chengjian reviewed his entrepreneurial history to Business Jianghu in an interview of more than an hour, and said that now he knows his last name.</p><p>\"I'm the man named 'Tailor',\" he said.</p><p><b>01</b></p><p><b>The Great Leap Forward of \"Half Sleeve\"</b></p><p>At first, Zhou Chengjian was indeed a tailor.</p><p>When he was 14 years old, he learned to make clothes with his relatives, and later went to Wenzhou to do clothing processing, mainly supplying wholesalers in Miaoguo Temple.</p><p>\"Generally, orders are taken in the afternoon and delivered at noon the next day, and the longest time will not exceed 72 hours, because customers won't wait so long.\" Zhou Chengjian said that at that time, he was so busy that he took jobs during the day and cut at night. When he was sleepy, he put a quilt on the clipping board to sleep.</p><p>\"At that time, there was a popular joke in our circle, 'Be the boss during the day and sleep on the floor at night.'\" He said.</p><p>Busy mistakes. One day, when cutting, Zhou Chengjian drew the wrong size and cut a stack of cloth by more than ten centimeters, resulting in the sleeves of these suits being shorter. Then he was \"scolded by the client\", and the other party asked him to compensate more than 100,000 yuan.</p><p>Helpless next week, Chengjian went to the market to buy another kind of fabric to splice the sleeves. In order to cover up his mistake, he changed the straight sleeves of the suit into color-matching jacket sleeves, and then asked the customer to \"try to sell them, and sell them if you can. If you can't sell them, I will pay for the loss myself.\"</p><p>Unexpectedly, this kind of splicing suit was sought after by the market, and it was quickly snapped up, and even many people came to \"chase the order\".</p><p>In this way, the \"spliced version of casual suit\" was born and became a new clothing category.</p><p>\"I used to think that I was just helping others make clothes, but after this incident, I realized that I can still create clothes. Since then, I have started to pay attention to making clothes. Others buy a clothes and cut it according to the cutting, but I will change some details of the clothes, such as changing sleeves or pockets, so that the clothes will look different and the business will be better than others.\" Zhou Chengjian said that the \"half-sleeve incident\" is a breakthrough point in his career.</p><p>After this battle, Zhou Chengjian also made a name for himself. Later, he opened his own clothing booth in Miaoguo Temple, forming a business model of \"front shop and back factory\". He took orders during the day and went back to the factory for cutting and processing at night. Under this mode, purchasing, design, sewing, sales and other links are all done by himself. Later, he opened a garment factory with more than 500 people in Wenzhou and became the most experienced practitioner in this industry.</p><p>A few years later, Zhou Chengjian, who was already the chairman of Metersbonwe, visited partner companies. When those factory owners boasted to him about their company's \"strong production capacity\", Zhou Chengjian said with a smile, \"At least 30% of the employees in your workshop are novices, and I can know their proficiency by listening to the sound of them stepping on sewing machines.\"</p><p>At that time, he was indeed an authentic \"Wenzhou tailor\".</p><p><b>02</b></p><p><b>Leather bag company and net fishing</b></p><p>In April, 1995, Zhou Chengjian opened the first Metersbonwe store in Wenzhou. In order to attract customers, he paved all Wuma Street in Wenzhou with a red carpet and went directly to Meibang stores.</p><p>The name of Metersbonwe is said to come from ancient Chinese, which means \"beauty is special here, and it promotes the prestige of our country\".</p><p>\"I didn't leave the wholesale market because I had done well in the wholesale market, but I didn't think it was a long-term solution.\" Zhou Chengjian said that the clothing market in Wenzhou was \"irregular\" at that time. There was no fixed retail price for clothing, and everyone was bargaining. He felt that this model needed to be changed.</p><p>\"I wanted to be a brand with a clear price tag and no bargaining.\" So Metersbonwe was born.</p><p>However, Smith Barney's innovation in clothing retail doesn't stop there. Because of the lack of funds in the early stage, Zhou Chengjian figured out a set of \"money-saving but fast\" development model-he outsourced the heaviest part of traditional clothing enterprises-manufacturing and production, and he was only responsible for design and brand marketing. At the same time, he attracted franchisees on a large scale, which on the one hand reduced the burden of enterprises and quickly seized the market.</p><p>\"I want to make all-category clothing, but my own factory only made woven jackets at that time, and the factory was too busy, so I could only find the all-category supply chain in the society to support it. At the same time, I didn't want to spend so much money on opening a store, so I invited customers who used to do wholesale in the wholesale market to become my franchisees.\" Zhou Chengjian said that at that time, he often went to Guangdong to find cooperative suppliers to broaden the category.</p><p>\"Simply put, I am equivalent to outsourcing the production workshop and store, and apart from these two links, everything else is our own, such as branding, plate making, design and other links.\" Zhou Chengjian said that this model caused many questions in the early days of its establishment.</p><p>\"Either produce it yourself, or produce it yourself and then open a specialty store to sell it yourself. At that time, this model was called the real economy, so as soon as Smith Barney appeared, some people questioned me for'not doing my job properly '.\"</p><p>Zhou Chengjian recalled that around 1996, about one year after the establishment of Smith Barney, a colleague in the wholesale market accompanied the China Apparel Association to Smith Barney for research. After the visit, he said to Zhou Chengjian, \"If your company is still alive one year later, I will cut off my head and give it to you.\"</p><p>There is no doubt that every innovation is mixed with huge doubts.</p><p>Looking back today, Smith Barney created a very excellent business model at that time-like large clothing brands such as Nike and Adidas, they used an asset-light model to quickly mobilize social forces, and then incited a huge market cake.</p><p>\"I didn't do it after I wanted to understand the theory, but I verified the correctness of this model through these theories after I finished it. Looking back, I was not the first to adopt this model in the world. Many brands in Europe and America are global OEM. This model has already existed, but I didn't know it at that time.\" Zhou Chengjian said that in the whole world, he was not an innovator, but in Zhejiang at that time, he was the \"first person\".</p><p>Around 1998, Zhang Dejiang, then secretary of Zhejiang Provincial Party Committee, went to Wenzhou for investigation. After listening to Zhou Chengjian's speech, Secretary Zhang said, \"Xiao Zhou, you have a good model. You are borrowing chickens to lay eggs and fishing by nets.\"</p><p>Subsequently, the secretary approved a long paragraph in the materials of Smith Barney, hoping that the national reporter stations in Zhejiang Province would vigorously publicize it, so that everyone could study Smith Barney and learn the Smith Barney model.</p><p>Overnight, Zhou Chengcheng became the representative of \"fishing by net\".</p><p>After a brief controversy, the \"asset-light\" model soon showed its advantages.</p><p>From its establishment in 1995 to its listing in 2008, in just 13 years, Smith Barney created a myth of rapid rise.</p><p>\"When it went public, Smith Barney had more than 5 billion retail sales and nearly 1,000 stores, surpassing many companies established earlier than us. Compared with various data such as scale, influence, and professional ability, we are the first in the industry, or even the second and third places may only add up to 2/3 of ours.\"</p><p>Zhou Chengjian said that to this day, he feels that this model has no obvious shortcomings, and \"Smith Barney's dilemma is that he didn't adhere to the key points in this model, such as product development and supply chain management.\" Behind this is the consequence of his own \"out of the circle\".</p><p><b>03</b></p><p><b>\"Change and unchanged\" after leaving the circle</b></p><p>A bad result of \"out of the circle\" is the increase of \"inventory\".</p><p>\"Clothing resources should be in the workshop, on the production line instead of in the warehouse. High inventory is an abnormal phenomenon. On the one hand, it occupies the warehouse area, increases circulation costs, financial costs, and trend lagging costs, etc.\" Zhou Chengjian said that the inventory backlog is closely related to his original \"out-of-circle\" behavior.</p><p>Specifically, in the past ten years, Smith Barney has made some mistakes in supply chain management and channel expansion.</p><p>\"Why was our sell-out rate of 97% at the end of the quarter before 2008? This is actually inseparable from the product research and development, technology landing and commodity supply chain capabilities behind it.\" Zhou Chengjian said that two wrong decisions in the supply chain indirectly led to the decrease in the sell-out rate.</p><p>At the beginning of its establishment, Smith Barney outsourced \"workshops and stores\", while its brand and design capabilities were in its own hands. They had their own design and R&D team, which could develop the most fashionable clothing according to market needs. However, after listing, a vice president made a suggestion to Zhou Chengjian to \"socialize the design and technical links\".</p><p>Simply put, both ends of the design process are outsourced.</p><p>\"The designer draws a draft, draws it and hands it over to the production factory for trial production. It takes about half a month or a month to make the clothes. When it comes back, we will review and see if it is right.\" Zhou Chengjian said that after the company went public, he mixed up in other circles and didn't pay so much attention to the clothing circle, which made him make some wrong judgments.</p><p>\"At that time, the vice president suggested that this kind of outsourcing could save tens of millions of costs. After listening to it, I felt reasonable, so I acquiesced in this change.\"</p><p>Another change in the supply chain also appeared at this time.</p><p>\"Another vice president suggested that all the procurement of noodles and accessories should be socialized.\" Prior to this, Smith Barney's supply chain was relatively closed, and they would choose some long-term cooperative suppliers to purchase. After socialization, they became the purchase of raw materials for the whole society.</p><p>\"After studying at China Europe Business School, the vice president made a related academic paper. After studying, he came to me and told me about socializing the supply chain, saying that this would save a lot of costs.\" Zhou Chengjian said that although these measures were all suggestions made by the vice president, the problem still lies with himself. \"Because I am the authorizer, the manager and the supporter.\"</p><p>These measures have indeed helped Smith Barney save costs in the short term, but on the other hand, they also mean that Smith Barney has lost its ability to respond quickly in the supply chain and its ability to control product quality.</p><p>\"After the design is outsourced, a lot of time cost is increased. The designer's design draft and the manufacturer's finished product are mailed back and forth for modification. Often, it takes a lot of time for clothes in a season to achieve the ideal sense of design and quality.\" Zhou Chengjian said that at that time, he didn't care about these details when he was \"out of the circle\", which led them to \"toss back and forth\" and reduced the design and production efficiency.</p><p>In terms of channels, Smith Barney sticks to some outdated standards.</p><p>\"At that time, the person in charge of the channel repeatedly suggested that I make changes to retail operation and channel planning, but I didn't listen to his advice.\" Zhou Chengjian said that the person in charge repeatedly stressed to him that the stores of Metersbonwe and ME&CITY should be adjusted. For example, ME&CITY should not open a large store, but should go to the shopping center business district to open a moderate area store. At the same time, Smith Barney stores should not be based on the Big Mac store on Nanjing Road, Shanghai, and other stores should be found to make standard copies.</p><p>And he didn't adopt these suggestions.</p><p>\"Looking back, the biggest change in the market in the past decade is the change of channels and retail methods. ME&CITY is positioned to serve the new middle class, and the target group is urban white-collar workers. In the past decade, the probability of urban white-collar workers going to traditional commercial streets has decreased. This group of people prefer to go shopping in shopping malls, so ME&CITY should set up stores in shopping malls such as Vientiane CITY, Longhu Tiandi and Kerry Center instead of staying in Huaihai Road or Nanjing Road. Correspondingly, Smith Barney stores can set up stores in traditional business districts, but the flagship store on Nanjing East Road should not be used as the standard. This store is too large and can be used as a flagship store, but it cannot be promoted nationwide. \" Zhou Chengjian said that during the \"out-of-the-circle\" period, because he didn't know enough about the market conditions, he \"didn't listen to what should be heard, but listened to everything that shouldn't be heard.\"</p><p>Zhou Chengjian reflected on the reasons for his two wrong decisions: \"Product R&D and supply chain belong to back-office management. Once the back-office doesn't contact, it will forget what is right and what is wrong, so when I receive these suggestions, I feel that I can't judge what is right or wrong, and then choose to listen to their suggestions; However, retail and channels belong to the front desk. I see a lot and have a lot of contact with the front desk every day. Even if I leave the circle, I still feel that I am in this situation, so I fall into the experience trap.</p><p>Zhou Chengjian admitted that after leaving the circle at that time, he \"broke away from the analysis in the industry, and just listened to suggestions from an emotional perspective.\" And this eventually led to more detours for Smith Barney.</p><p><b>04</b></p><p><b>Reflections on \"Banggou\" and \"Youfaner\" APP</b></p><p>Of course, \"leaving the circle\" is not all a bad thing. From another perspective, Zhou Chengjian, who stands in a higher circle, also sees greater opportunities and benefits from the exchange of information \"outside the circle\". He made two major attempts in the Internet industry in 2010 and 2014.</p><p>In 2010, when Smith Barney was at its peak, Zhou Chengjian launched Smith Barney's own e-commerce platform \"Bangou.com\". Through this e-commerce platform, consumers can scan codes for consumption in physical stores, and can also realize many functions such as online shopping and offline returns.</p><p>In the first year of its launch, the turnover of Smith Barney's single brand on Banggou Online was 300 million, which is a very good figure, but unfortunately, Banggou Online only lasted for about one year before it ended sadly.</p><p>Another more significant attempt by Zhou Chengjian appeared four years later. In 2014, Metersbonwe won the overall title of Qipa Shuo with 50 million yuan; In April of the following year, the \"Youfan\" APP was launched; Subsequently, the \"Youfan\" APP successively won the title of the second and third seasons of \"Qipa Shuo\".</p><p>Youfan is an experience platform focusing on \"fashion matching\". Users can communicate with professional stylists at zero distance through this APP, choose their own style from a large number of personalized brands, get customized exclusive suggestions, and place orders in real time for sharing and interaction.</p><p>From today's point of view, Youfan is a \"social e-commerce\" APP. He has all the attributes of social e-commerce, and thanks to the drainage of Qipa Shuo, Youfan ushered in a \"good start\"-the first night of its launch, it attracted 500,000 users, and these people uploaded 100,000 selfies.</p><p>However, this APP failed to go far in the market. In August 2017, the \"Youfan\" APP announced its offline.</p><p>Zhou Chengjian said that both Banggou and Youfan have actually seized the window period, which can be verified from Vipshop and Xiaohongshu, which rose at the same time. However, Banggou and Youfan have failed to go far. The key reason is that \"I don't understand it at all.\"</p><p>\"Banggou and Youfan are both positioned in our own channels, but failed to expand to the platform attribute. We always want to make them a new channel of Smith Barney, but never think of making them a mass platform that can cover more brands. This is the result of laymen's blind investment without understanding this matter.\" Zhou Chengjian metaphorically said that no matter Nanjing East Road, Tmall and Suning are actually social channels. \"The business district needs groups, this is the business district. And I positioned Banggou and Youfan as Smith Barney's own channel, just like opening a Metersbonwe store in Smith Barney.</p><p>He said that the experience given to himself by this incident is that \"decisions made from outside the circle should be done in ways outside the circle, and you can't follow the methods inside the circle, otherwise you will definitely fail.\"</p><p><b>05</b></p><p><b>regression</b></p><p>After nearly ten years of twists and turns, Zhou Chengjian decided to return to the status of \"tailor\".</p><p>\"There is no way out. The company is doing so badly. Unless I give up, I have to think about doing him well again.\" Since 2018, Zhou Chengjian began to gradually return, and the first thing he did after his return was to \"correct mistakes\".</p><p>He reorganized Smith Barney's current channels and supply chain, and is trying to make up for the original \"wrong decision.\"</p><p>\"Our key problem now is resource dislocation. I asked the team to rethink how to make and sell clothes? For example, how to sell clothes? How to match the current resources to the corresponding channels.\"</p><p>Subsequently, Smith Barney conducted a global channel classification analysis on online and offline.</p><p>\"Whether it's the traditional online JD.COM, Tmall or the newly emerging social e-commerce platform, as well as offline business districts, shopping malls, etc., we hope to analyze and plan these global channels to find out who we want to sell to? How to sell the answer, sort out these questions, and then do product planning and supply chain support based on this precise market.\"</p><p>In 2015, in order to break the circle, Smith Barney launched the \"five major styles\", namely casual NEWear, trendy HYSTYL, urban light business Nōvachic, street fashion MTEE, and forest ASELF. Smith Barney hopes that these diverse styles can satisfy more consumers.</p><p>\"This strategy is right, but now from the perspective of simplification, they can't meet the market demand individually. We need to go deep into these styles and gradually clarify their consumer groups and consumption regions. For example, the trend system sells well in the Northeast, but we dominate resources on average across the country, which is'resource dislocation '.\"</p><p>Currently, Zhou Chengjian is accurately matching the five styles with channels and regional markets. \"Based on market demand and combined with the company's capabilities, I will focus on a certain style first, and then gradually implement it, breaking through one by one.\"</p><p>In addition to accurate matching of channels, supply chain management has also become the focus of Smith Barney's self-help.</p><p>They took back the \"technology research and development\" link that was blindly outsourced at the beginning, reorganized the supply chain, and realized a \"closed-loop path from trends to clothes.\"</p><p>\"We now have our own design team and sample clothing factory. The design and production of sample clothing are all completed internally, which greatly improves the efficiency and increases the controllability of clothing design and quality. We have just finished the research and development of ME&CITY in the autumn of 2021, and the company is very satisfied with this season's products.\"</p><p>In terms of channels, Zhou Chengjian finally changed the standards he had previously insisted on, reorganized the channel standards, and readjusted them from \"placement\" to area.</p><p>\"In addition, we also sort out the accurate matching products of different channels, and the whole operation work is more refined, standardized and replicable, so that franchisees also have confidence.\"</p><p>\"Through the sorting out in the second half of last year, many partners returned to join and cooperate a few years ago. The number of our joins in the first quarter of this year (2021) has reached the scale of last year. In the first quarter, it has been determined that the area of developed stores has been larger than that of last year. The development area of one year.\"</p><p>\"I hope Smith Barney can regain its core competitiveness and let the whole company return to the business of making and selling clothes. Now I think we have a very clear strategy and path, but we haven't fully achieved this core advantage, and now we have just embarked on the journey back.\"</p><p>Zhou Chengjian has indeed taken an \"unusual path\" from entering Wenzhou alone as a teenager, becoming the richest man in the clothing industry when he went public, and then returning to the original intention of \"tailoring\" today.</p><p>\"It is very difficult for people to know themselves, and it is even more difficult to manage themselves. Through repeated tossing, we always grow up and mature, and we will always know ourselves better than before. I have tossed and experienced it. If there is still a chance to return, this is a blessing in itself... Today, if people can still label me a 'tailor', I will be satisfied.\" Zhou Chengjian said with a teacup backed by a huge glass window.</p>\n<div class=\"bt-text\">\n\n\n<p> source：<a href=\"https://mp.weixin.qq.com/s/Xr9zecdJ2WDX3N_tPWSpZA\">商业江湖</a></p>\n\n\n</div>\n</article>\n</div>\n</body>\n</html>\n","type":0,"thumbnail":"https://static.tigerbbs.com/d4130e6389dd597b1fd98bec5929e58b","relate_stocks":{"002269":"美邦服饰"},"source_url":"https://mp.weixin.qq.com/s/Xr9zecdJ2WDX3N_tPWSpZA","is_english":false,"share_image_url":"https://static.laohu8.com/e9f99090a1c2ed51c021029395664489","article_id":"1144988792","content_text":"2008年美特斯邦威在深交所挂牌上市，在上市仪式上，美邦创始人周成建向深交所赠送了一台镀金小缝纫机，他说：“我最早是一个村庄的裁缝，现在有幸成为中国的裁缝，希望以后还能成为全球的裁缝。”\n此后，“中国裁缝”成为周成建最重要的标签，他在多个场合重复这个说法。\n但13年后，周成建开始反思自己的“言行不一”。\n2021年1月28日，坐在上海康桥美邦总部办公室里，周成建对《商业江湖》说，“表面上我一直强调自己做‘中国裁缝’，但实际上，在过去的若干年里我一度脱离服装圈，很少了解行业的变化，正是这种‘脱圈’行为让美邦出现今天的困局。”\n十年前，美邦有着漂亮的财报数据。\n2008年，美特斯邦威的净利润已经达到5.88亿元，而他们在2011年达到顶峰，当年美邦在全国开设了5000多家连锁店，实现营收99.45亿元、净利12.06亿元。\n“那时，我们是国内供应链能力最强的服装公司，我们季末售罄率可以达到95-97%，甚至季中补单还可以做到45%左右，而现在我们的季末售罄率只有50-60%。”周成建说。\n回头看，2008年是周成建“裁缝生涯”的拐点，此前他“所有的精力都在服装这个圈子，经常跑到米兰、巴黎和当地设计师交流服装设计”，而上市后，他“从一个农民变成上市公司老板，混不同圈子机会也多了，整个人自信过头，跑偏了。”\n“有些人混圈子不管怎么混都不会忘记自己，而我混着混着把自己姓什么忘了。”\n“我天天把‘裁缝’当做口号，但本质上又忘了裁缝，行为不基于裁缝就造成了今天的麻烦，而现在我在公司里强调‘唤醒和回归’就是希望从我做起，唤醒对‘做衣服’的执念，回归服装圈。”\n从草莽创业，到迷失自我，再到唤醒回归，周成建在一个多小时的采访中向《商业江湖》回顾了自己的创业史，并表示现在他知道自己姓什么了。\n“我是姓‘裁缝’的人。”他说。\n01\n“半截袖”的大跃进\n最初，周成建确实是一个裁缝。\n他14岁时随着亲戚学做衣服，后来到温州做服装代加工，主要为妙果寺批发商供货。\n“做代加工一般都是下午接单，第二天中午交货，最长也不会超过72小时，因为客人不会等这么久。”周成建说，那时他忙的焦头烂额，白天接活晚上裁剪，困了就在剪板上放上被子睡觉。\n“那时候我们圈里流行一句调侃‘白天当老板，晚上睡地板。’”他说。\n忙中出错，一天在裁剪时，周成建画错了尺寸，将一沓布料多裁了十几厘米，导致这批西装的袖子短了一截。随后他“被客户骂的狗血淋头”，对方让他赔偿十几万。\n无奈之下周成建去市场上买了另一种布料来拼接衣袖，为了掩盖失误，他将西装的直袖改成了拼色的夹克袖，然后请客户“试着卖一下，能卖就卖，卖不了损失多少我自己赔付。”\n出乎意料的是这种拼接西服受到市场的追捧，很快就抢购一空，甚至很多人前来“追单”。\n就这样“拼接版的休闲西服”横空出世，成为一个新的服装品类。\n“我以前认为自己只是帮人家做衣服，但经过这个事情之后我意识到我还可以创造衣服，此后我开始在做衣服上花心思，别家是买过来一件衣服仿照着裁剪，而我会将衣服改一些细节，比如改个袖子或者口袋，这样衣服就显得与众不同，生意也就比别人的好一些。”周成建说，“半截袖事件”是自己事业上的一个突破点。\n经此一役，周成建也闯出了名声，随后他在妙果寺开设了自己的服装摊位，形成了“前店后厂”的经营模式，白天接单晚上回厂里裁剪加工。这种模式下，采购、设计、缝制、销售等环节，全部自己做，随后他在温州开办了500多人的制衣工厂，成为这个行业最具经验的从业者。\n数年后，已经是美特斯邦威董事长的周成建去合作伙伴公司参观，在那些工厂老板跟他夸口自己公司“生产能力多强”的时候，周成建会笑着说，“你们车间至少有三成员工是新手，我听他们踩缝纫机的声音就能知道他们的熟练程度。”\n那时候的他确实是一个地道的“温州裁缝”。\n02\n皮包公司和借网捕鱼\n1995年4月，周成建在温州开设了第一家美特斯邦威专卖店，为了吸引顾客，他将温州五马街全部铺上了红地毯，直通美邦门店。\n美特斯邦威的名字据说源自古风中文，意指“美丽特别斯于此，扬我国邦之威”。\n“我离开批发市场并非是在批发市场已经做的很好，而是我觉得这样下去不是长久之计。”周成建说当时温州服装市场“不规范”，服装都没有固定的零售价格，所有人都在讨价还价，他觉得这种模式需要改一改。\n“我想要做一个明码标价，不讨价还价的品牌。”于是美特斯邦威诞生了。\n不过美邦对于服装零售的创新不止于此，因为前期资金不足，周成建琢磨出一套“省钱但快速的”发展模式——他将传统服装企业最重的部分——制造、生产外包，自身只负责设计和品牌营销，同时大规模的招徕加盟商，这样一方面减轻了企业负担，同时也快速的抢占了市场。\n“我要做全品类的服装，但我自己的工厂当时只做梭织夹克，工厂也忙不过来，所以我只能找社会上的全品类供应链来支撑，同时开店方面我也不想花那么多钱，于是把曾经在批发市场做批发的客户邀请过来成为我的加盟商。”周成建说，那时候他经常去广东找合作供应商，去拓宽品类。\n“简单的说我相当于把生产车间和门店外包了，而这两个环节之外，其他东西都是我们自己的，比如品牌、制版、设计等环节自己做。”周成建说，这个模式在创立初期引发了诸多质疑。\n“要么自己生产，要么自己生产再自己开专卖店销售，那时候这种模式才叫实体经济，所以美邦一出现就有人质疑我‘不务正业’。”\n周成建回忆说，1996年前后，也就是美邦成立一年左右，批发市场的一个同行随同“中国服饰协会”到美邦做调研，参观完后对周成建说，“一年之后你的公司如果还活着，我把头割下来送给你。”\n毫无疑问，每一次创新都夹杂着巨大的质疑。\n站在今天回头看，当时的美邦创立了一个非常优秀的商业模式——像Nike、阿迪等大型服饰品牌一样，他们用了一种轻资产模式快速发动社会力量，继而撬动了一个巨大的市场蛋糕。\n“我不是想明白了理论之后再去做的，而是做完了之后通过这些理论验证了这个模式的正确性，回头看我在全世界并不是最早采用这个模式的，欧美很多品牌都是全球代工，这种模式早已存在，只是当时的我并不知道。”周成建说，放到全世界来看，他不是创新者，但在当时的浙江，他是“第一人”。\n1998年前后，时任浙江省委书记的张德江到温州调研，在听取了周成建的发言后，张书记说，“小周，你这个模式好，你这是借鸡生蛋，借网捕鱼。”\n随后，书记在美邦的材料中批复了很长的一段话，希望全国驻浙江省记者站大力宣传，让大家研究美邦，学习美邦模式。\n一夜之间，周成建成为“借网捕鱼”的代表者。\n在经过短暂的争议后，“轻资产”模式很快就显现出他的优势。\n从1995年创立到2008年上市，在短短的13年里，美邦创造了一个快速崛起的神话。\n“上市时美邦零售额50多亿，有近千家门店，超越了许多比我们成立更早的公司，从规模、影响力、专业能力等各项数据比较我们都是行业第一名，甚至第二、第三名加起来可能只是我们的2/3。”\n周成建说，直到今天，他都觉得这个模式没有明显的缺点，而“美邦的困境在于自己没有坚持这个模式中的关键点，比如产品研发和供应链管理。”而这背后正是他自己“脱离了圈子”造成的后果。\n03\n离圈后的“变和不变”\n“离圈”造成的一个坏结果是“库存”增加。\n“服装资源应该在车间里，在生产线上而不是在仓库里，库存高是不正常的现象，一方面占用仓库面积，增加流通成本、财务成本，还有趋势滞后成本等等。”周成建说，库存积压和自己当初的“离圈”行为息息相关。\n具体而言，在过去的十年间，美邦在供应链管理和渠道拓展上都犯了一些错误。\n“为什么2008年之前我们季末售罄率可以做到97%？这其实和背后的产品研发、技术落地和以及商品供应链能力密不可分。”周成建说，供应链的两个失误决定间接导致了售罄率的降低。\n创立初期，美邦将“车间和门店”都外包，而品牌和设计能力都在自己手中，他们有自己的设计研发团队，可以根据市场需要来研发最时尚的服装，但在上市之后，一个副总向周成建提出建议“将设计和技术环节社会化”。\n简单的说就是将设计环节的两端都外包出去。\n“设计师画一个稿，画好交给生产工厂试生产，做好衣服大概需要半个月、一个月，拿回来我们审核看做的对不对。”周成建说，公司上市后，他混迹于其他圈子，对于服装圈没那么关注，这让他做了一些错误的判断。\n“当时那个副总建议说，这种外包可以节约几千万的成本，我听完之后觉得有道理，于是默许了这种改变。”\n而另一个供应链端的改变也在此时出现。\n“另一个副总建议将面辅料采购全部社会化。”在此之前，美邦的供应链相对封闭，他们会选择一些长期合作的供应商来采购，社会化之后成为面向全社会采购原料。\n“那个副总在中欧商学院读书后，做了一个相关的学术论文，学完之后就来和我说把供应链社会化，说这样可以节约一大批成本。”周成建说，虽然这些举措都是副总做出的建议，但问题还是出在自己身上。“因为我是授权者，管理者和支持者。”\n这些举措确实帮助美邦在短期内节约了成本，但另一方面也意味着美邦失去了供应链的快速响应能力，以及对产品质量的把控能力。\n“设计外包之后，增加了大量的时间成本，设计师的设计稿和生产厂商的成品来回邮寄修改，往往一季衣服花费了大量时间还没有能达到理想的设计感和品质感。”周成建说，那时候自己“离圈”并不关心这些细节，导致他们“来来回回折腾”，降低了设计生产效率。\n而在渠道方面，美邦却固守了一些陈旧的标准。\n“当时渠道负责人反复建议我对零售运营和渠道规划作出改变，但我却没有听从他的建议。”周成建说，该负责人反复向他强调，应该对美特斯邦威和ME&CITY的门店进行调整，比如ME&CITY不应该开大店，而应该去购物中心商圈开适度面积的店，同时美邦门店不应该基于上海南京路巨无霸店做标准，要找另外的店铺做标准复制。\n而这些建议他也都没有采纳。\n“回头看，过去十年市场上最大的变化是渠道变化和零售方式的变化。ME&CITY定位为新中产阶级服务，目标群体是都市白领阶层，而过去十年间都市白领去传统商业街的几率在降低，这部分人群更喜欢去购物中心购物，所以ME&CITY更应该去如万象城、龙湖天地、嘉里中心这样的购物中心设置门店，而不是继续呆在淮海路或者南京路。与此对应，美邦的门店是可以在传统商圈设店，但不应该以南京东路的旗舰店作为标准，这家店面积太大，可以作为旗舰店，但不能全国推广。”周成建说，在“离圈”期间，因为他不够了解市场行情导致“该听的没听，不该听的都听了。”\n周成建反思自己这两个错误决定的原因：“产品研发和供应链是属于后台管理，后台一旦不接触会忘掉什么是对，什么是错，所以在接到这些建议时我觉得自己无法判断对错，进而选择听从他们的建议；但零售和渠道属于前台，前台我日常看的多，接触的多，就算离圈了，还觉得自己在这个情境里，于是陷入经验陷阱，坚持自己的决定，不愿接受建议。”\n周成建承认，自己当时离圈后“脱离了行业内的分析，只是站在一个情绪去听建议。”而这最终导致了美邦走更多的弯路。\n04\n“邦购”和“有范儿”APP的反思\n当然，“离圈”并不全是坏事，从另一个角度看，站在更高圈层的周成建也看到了更大的机会，受益于“圈外”信息的交流，他曾在2010年和2014年在互联网行业进行过两次重大的尝试。\n2010年，也就是美邦最如日中天的时刻，周成建推出了美邦自己的电商平台“邦购网”。借由这个电商平台，消费者可以在实体店内扫码消费，也能实现线上购物和线下退换等多项功能。\n上线第一年，邦购网上美邦单品牌成交量3亿，这是一个很不错的数据，但令人遗憾的是，邦购网仅坚持了一年左右就黯然收场。\n周成建另一个更重大的尝试出现在4年后。2014年，美特斯邦威以5000万拿下《奇葩说》的总冠名；次年4月份，推出“有范”APP；随后，“有范”APP又相继拿下《奇葩说》第二季和第三季的冠名。\n有范是一个主打“潮流时尚搭配的体验平台”，用户可以通过该APP与专业造型师零距离沟通，在大量个性化品牌中挑选适合自己的风格，获得定制化专属建议，并实时下单，进行分享、互动。\n以今天的眼光看，有范就是一款“社交电商”APP，他具有了社交电商的所有属性，受益于奇葩说的引流，有范迎来了“开门红”——上线的第一天晚上就引来了50万用户，这些人上传了10万条自拍内容。\n但这款APP在市场上也未能走远，2017年8月“有范”APP宣布下线。\n周成建说，邦购和有范其实都抓住了窗口期，这从二者同期崛起的唯品会和小红书就可以得到验证，但是邦购和有范又都未能走远，最关键的原因还在于“自己根本就没搞懂”。\n“邦购和有范都是定位于我们自己的渠道，而未能扩大到平台属性。我们总想着让他们成为美邦的新渠道，而没有想过把他们做成一个可以涵盖更多品牌的大众平台。这就是外行人没看懂这个事情就盲目投入的结果。”周成建比喻说，无论南京东路、还是天猫、苏宁其实都是社会渠道，“商圈需要群体，这才是商圈。而自己将邦购和有范都定位成美邦自己的渠道，这就像是在美邦厂区开了一个美特斯邦威的专卖店一样，这个逻辑本身就是错的，不可能成功，但当时我没想明白。”\n他说，这件事给自己的经验是“从圈外作出的决定就要用圈外的方式来做事，不能再沿袭圈内的方法，不然一定失败。”\n05\n回归\n经历了近十年的波折后，周成建决定回归“裁缝”身份。\n“没有退路了，企业做的这么糟糕，除非我放弃，不然我就要想着把他再次做好。”从2018年后，周成建开始逐步回归，而他回归后的第一件事就是“纠错”。\n他重新梳理了美邦当前的渠道和供应链，正努力弥补当初的“错误决定。”\n“我们现在的关键问题是资源错位，我让团队重新思考如何做衣服、卖衣服？比如衣服怎么卖？如何将当前的资源匹配到相应的渠道中去。”\n随后美邦对线上线下做了全域渠道分类分析。\n“无论是线上传统的京东、天猫还是新近崛起的社交电商平台，以及线下的商圈、购物中心等等我们希望针对这些全域渠道做剖析和规划，找到我们想卖给谁？怎么卖的答案，将这些问题梳理清楚后在基于这种精准市场来做产品规划和供应链支持。”\n2015年，为了破圈，美邦推出了“五大风格”即休闲风NEWear、潮流范HYSTYL、都市轻商务Nōvachic、街头潮趣MTEE、森系ASELF，美邦希望这些多元的风格能满足更多的消费者。\n“这个策略是对的，但现在从单一化来看，他们单个无法满足市场需求。我们需要深入到这些风格中逐步的厘清他们消费群体以及消费地域，比如潮流系在东北就卖的很好，但我们在全国平均支配资源，这就是‘资源错位’。”\n当前，周成建正在将五种风格和渠道、区域市场做精准的匹配，“基于市场需求，再结合公司能力，我先聚焦某一个风格，再逐步落实，一个一个攻破。”\n除了渠道做精准匹配之外，供应链的管理也成为美邦自救的重点。\n他们收回了当初盲目外包的“技术研发”环节，重新梳理了供应链，实现了“从趋势到衣服的闭环路径。”\n“我们现在有自己的设计团队和样衣工厂，样衣的设计、生产都在我们内部完成，这极大的提高了效率，而且增加了服饰设计、质量的可控性，我们刚刚做完ME&CITY2021年秋的研发，公司内部对这季产品都非常满意。”\n在渠道方面，周成建终于改变了他此前坚持的标准，重新梳理了渠道标准，从“落位”到面积进行了重新调整。\n“另外也对不同渠道精准匹配产品做梳理，整个营运工作更精细、更标准化，更可复制化，这样加盟商也有了信心。”\n“通过去年下半年的梳理，很多若干年前和合作伙伴重新回来加盟合作，我们今年（2021年）第一季度加盟数字已经达到去年一年的规模，一季度已经确定开发店铺的面积已经大于去年一年的开发面积。”\n“我希望美邦重新找回自己的核心竞争力，让公司上下重新回归去做衣服和卖衣服的事业上，现在我觉得我们在策略上、路径上已经非常清楚了，但还没有完全做到这种核心优势，现在刚踏上回归的路程。”\n从十几岁只身闯温州，到上市暴富成为服装圈首富，再到今天回归“裁缝”初衷，周成建确实走了一条“不寻常的道路”。\n“人了解自己是非常难的，管理自己更难，通过反复的折腾我们总要成长成熟，总会比以前更加了解自己。我折腾过了，也经历过了，如果还有机会重新回归，这本身就是一种福报……今天，如果人们还能给我贴上‘裁缝’的标签，我就满足了。”背靠巨大的玻璃窗，周成建捧着茶杯说。","news_type":1,"symbols_score_info":{"002269":0.9}},"isVote":1,"tweetType":1,"viewCount":2205,"authorTweetTopStatus":1,"verified":2,"comments":[],"imageCount":0,"langContent":"EN","totalScore":0}],"lives":[]}